MJU
Sloane Street SW1
Clifford
Mould tried the Menu Degustation
First
of all a few bits of corrective
information: MJU is not a Japanese
restaurant, although there are
certainly far Eastern and Japanese
influences at work. Also it has
nothing to do with the Olympus
Camera of same name. And it's
not really an hotel restaurant
either, in spite of its location
within the Millennium Hotel on
Sloane Street. Many hotel restaurants
have been taken over by chefs
under their own names, one thinks
of Gordon Ramsey at Claridge's,
and most recently Brian
Turner at the Millennium
Hotel on Grosvenor Square. MJU
(pronounced mew, like a kitten
does) was the brainchild of the
Japanese-Australian chef Tetsuya
Wakuda. The chef now, is Chris
Behre, who has worked with Alisoun
Stewart formerly of the Raymond
Blanc group; between them they
have tweaked up the menus and
together with Australian sommelier
Michaela Clayton have produced
a magnificent wine list which
celebrates the many glories of
the Oz wine making scene. The
dining space is quiet but luxurious,
with some very beautiful Shoji
miniatures on one of the walls
and with a glass walled enoteca
to show off the wines.
At
lunch time there's a menu du
jour (two courses for £19.95,
or £24.95 for three) which includes
wine selected by the sommelier.
The very popular dinner degustation
menu which also includes matching
wines, means that there is no
shortage of smashing wines by
the glass. There's also
a lunch mezze, whose star dish
is the Mju plate consisting of
a selection of Mju morsels to
share (£15).
Morsels
was a word also in my mind, as
we couldn't resist trying the
evening Menu Degustation, with
its seven wines accompanying
each course. Each course was
made up of smaller, separate
but complementing morsels, so
the whole thing was a sort of
gastronomic procession. To enjoy
it fully, you need time, so start
early. We arrived not long after
7pm, and didn't leave until after
11pm. Also, to take a party of
six enthusiastic foodies would
be even more fun, with everyone
comparing notes, enjoying the
rich variety of flavours and
textures without having to raid
one another's plates!
The
feast began with an amuse
gueule, and then some very
plump oysters in a wonderful ginger
and citrus dressing, accompanied
by Proseco de Crede whose
clean sparkle was a wake up call
to the palate and the exertions
ahead. All the dishes came on
a motley array of interesting
shaped ceramics - next was a
diagonal of three fishy concoctions,
tartare of tuna, grilled barbecued
eel and white crab salad. We
were advised to begin with the
delicate raw tuna, progress to
the richly caramelised eel, then
clear the palate with the fresh
sea crab. An intense Chablis
from Domaine Sainte Clair kept
the taste buds tingling.
Next
a duo of scallops in breadcrumbs,
slit open and stuffed with a
sliver of foie gras. I have friends
who would have preferred a wedge
of the foie gras or a half dozen
of the scallops or both, but
they could get them off the a
la carte menu - we were here
for the procession. The other
half of the duo was a ceviche
of langoustine and john dory
and this course was washed down
with a fabulous Alsatian Pinot
Gris from Trimbach, which rolled
extravagantly around the mouth.
Then
a succession of three starter
sized main dishes, served separately:
first some tender pieces of lobster
on vermicelli with a vibrant
shellfish reduction, with Tyrell's
Old Winery Semillon Chardonnay,
then glazed duck breast with
a bite sized chunk of foie gras.
Flavours of soy, cinnamon and
pumpkin came through making an
arresting partnership with a
Beaujolais Cru, a fruity Fleurie
from La Bouroniere. The
baritone of the trio was
braised rabbit, slow cooked with
spring veg and served with roasted
baby beetroot, and paired with
Schiopettino, Friuli Venezio
Giuila, whose dark cherry bite
cut the richness of the meat
admirably. What a brilliant counterpoint
between kitchen and cellar!
But
we were not quite finished. After
a refreshing sorbet, a white
chocolate and saffron pannacotta
with rhubarb confit was served
and with this, a refreshing glass
of demi-sec Vueve-Clicquot white
label. A heavy sauternes would
have been over the top after
such a meal, but off dry champers
is both settling and mind clearing.
Now
I realise that such a meal is
not everyone's idea of a satisfying
nosh, coitus interruptus of
the stomach, I've heard it
described. But I loved it, and
those who want fuller platefuls
have a very interesting looking
a la carte menu to choose from,
and you may browse it now by
following the link below.
Service was top notch, as it
would have to be, otherwise such
an elaborate meal would be a
total disaster. This one
was a gourmet's delight.
Dinner
degustation menu £55 per person,
or £85 with all those wines.
A la carte menu priced
from £30 for three courses
(see menu)
Mju
at the Millennium Hotel, 17 Sloane
Street, Knightsbridge, London
SW1
Tel: 020 7201 6330