Gilgamesh
- Camden NW1
Louise Elgin was overcome
by transports of delight
Gilgamesh
is not just Camden’s hippest new
bar and restaurant, it is a milieu
that juxtaposes the ultra modern
with the ancient historic. Apparently
it took six hundred (!) carvers six
months to complete the intricate
artwork that festoons this vast cavern.
Set in a huge warehouse-style space
complete with fully retractable windows
and vaulted arc ceiling, a lavish
backdrop has been created. To say
this is a visually stunning assault
on the senses is not an exaggeration.
You enter a world of eastern opulence,
with marbled pillars, enormous plant
pots, bronze figures and exquisite
decorative handmade furniture. Adding
yet more drama to the kitsch environment
is the constantly active freight
train line situated behind the glass
wall of the restaurant, their eerie
noise creating yet more atmosphere
to the fantasy style surroundings.
In
the funky three sided glass bar,
wooden friezes depicting ancient
Babylonian historical scenes blend
with yet more elaborate carving and
circular style seating furnished
in luxurious red and gold fabrics.
High tech prisms lead to a constant
rotation of lighting, so the restaurant
is bathed in one of red, green or
blue every few moments. This results
in illuminating the stunning art
work, while the low level funky music
- courtesy of an onsite DJ - is carefully
chosen to suit the eclectic surroundings.
The entrance is accessed by escalator,
and as I rose up and away from the
bustle of Camden Town it was as if
I had been transported into some über-trendy
New York spot.
The
main dining room, which must seat
around 300 has the kitchen in full
view behind the regal sphinx like
statues that depict Gilgamesh, the
ancient Babylonian king who according
to legend was two thirds God and
one third human and was a figure
of immense power and status. This
is chef Ian Pengelly’s latest venture
specialising in the Pan Asian cuisine
for which he is renowned.
The
menu is split into several sections
and offers a flavour of tastes from
across the Orient. We began with
a very fresh mixed sashimi platter
which was pure theatre in its presentation
- served over dry ice this beautifully
prepared selection of raw fish included
tuna, sea bass, salmon and yellow
tuna topped with tobiko, a flying
fish roe. We also tried some Dim
Sum, amazing tender scallops, beautifully
textured and flavoured were a joy
to consume. Crispy squid, served
in a paper bundle with a very hot
chilli dipping sauce nearly blew
our heads off, but we still gave
it really high marks. Our duck spring
rolls, served with Hoisin sauce were
subline - like eating a mini version
of crispy duck pancakes. We
also tried a green tiger prawn curry,
fabulously presented, but not quite
up to the other dishes in terms of
flavour. To drink we tried a bottle
of South African oaked Chenin Blanc
which was well rounded with buttery
flavours, soft on the palate and
perfect for the curry. Amazingly
I still had plenty of room for pud
and from the limited selection on
offer we tried a rather sweet passion
fruit rice pudding and a terrific
chilled bitter jaffa cake creation
which was soft and light with an
attractive foamy sauce.
As
the evening lengthened the music
grew funkier, and I now felt, partly
due to the alcohol and partly due
to the heat, that I had been transported
again, this time to an Ibiza club.
Gilgamesh essentially offers more
than just a feast for a palate; it’s
a unique dining experience, one that
I shall return to again to be re-captivated
by its hypnotic spell.
Louise
Elgin. July 2006
A
three course meal with wine and water
is about £60 a head.
Gilgamesh
- Camden Stables Market - Chalk Farm
Road - London NW1
Tel:
020 7482 5757 www.gilgameshbar.com
