The
Black Swan
A
welcoming new gastropub near the M25-A3
junction
 Known
to locals as the Mucky Duck, the
Black Swan used to be a real hairy
bikers' pub. It was recently acquired
by Geronimo Inns who must have
spent an absolute fortune on the
most amazing and imaginative transformation.
Nothing has been left unconsidered,
from the gardens to the decor and
furnishings and most importantly,
the state-of-the-art kitchens,
presided over by Mark
Blatchford, formerly head chef
of Toast in Hampstead and SoHo
House, New York. There is
a good sized bar area and the emphasis
is on comfort with big sofas for
lounging around.
Blatchford is a keen advocate of local
produce and I was delighted to find that
his meat comes from my favourite Surrey
butchers, Conisbee,
who farm their own herd of Sussex breed
cattle as well as sheep on the nearby
Polesden Lacey estate. Blatchford is
clearly
a keen exponent of the art of garde
manger, as everyday the kitchen makes up Kilner Jars filled, for example,
with potted salmon or potted ham, served with a sharp home made piccalilli. There
are also smaller so-called 'deli-jars' with tempting spreads such as brandade
of cod, or chicken liver parfait which are served all day with wedges of fresh
home baked bread for an amazing £2.00!! The lunch menu hovers between lighter
dishes like Eggs Benedict, trad British dishes like Shepherds' Pie, and must
haves imported from the main dinner menu. Their fish and chips is already becoming
legendary, particularly on account of the 'cyder
batter' and the pea purée.
We had a most enjoyable dinner
the other night and came away excited at the prospect of many return visits
- can't wait to try Sunday lunch!. The starter of jellied ham hock was
yet another example of garde manger skill, a lovely marbled effect making
the presentation visibly effective. The glazed leek and wild mushroom tart
was notable for its most delicious short pastry, but I remained unconvinced
that the filling had really been cooked off properly. Even so, the flavours
were excellent.
 The
main course rack of lamb was pink and tender under a crispy herb crust and
the boulangère potatoes demonstrated the kitchen's depth of proper culinary
practice. The veggie dish was cannelloni filled with butternut squash gratinated
with goat's cheese. Even a sprinkling of pine nuts could not conceal a want
of variety, particularly of texture - the dish was much of a muchness. I'm
probably being ultra hard on this because everything else was so darn good!
Roast cod came with big succulent flakes and just crunchy puy lentils. Incidentally,
all the garnishes were well chosen and added to the unfussy visual impact
of their respective dishes. Conisbee's 28 day hung rump steak was full of
flavour and the chips were really superb - what a difference to a dish really
good ones make! The Béarnaise sauce was another triumph of mainstream culinary
skill, not lost out here in the Surrey sticks.
If you have
room left, don't miss out on the voluptuous Hot Fudge Sundae - deep chocolate
and toffee, warm mouthfuls vying with cold ice cream - delicious! The Frangipane
Tart was a bit dull - needed more sharply defined almond flavours - but
underneath its crisp topping the Crème Brûlée was smooth and rich.
From an expertly conceived wine list, we drank several bottles of a very
nice Chablis, reasonably priced at £21.00, and a bottle of Argentine Malbec
that partnered my steak brilliantly. Service was friendly and efficient
and there was no shortage of willing staff.
The Black Swan at Ockham, wins
a Dine Online Award
Old Lane, Ockham, Surrey KT11 1NG
T: 01932 862364 W: www.geronimo-inns.co.uk
A la carte dinner
served 6.30 - 9.30pm. Prices: Starters £4.50 - ££8.50; Mains £10.50 - £17.50;
Sides £3.00; Puds £5.00
Lunch available 12 - 3.00pm. Brunch and Bar Snacks at appropriate times!
See their website for details including Sunday roasts (Conisbee's topside of
beef).
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