Papillon,
96 Draycot Avenue SW3
Louise Elgin was seduced
by Chelsea cool
Just
off Brompton Cross, that part of
Knightsbridge/Chelsea that is very
fashionable with foreign wealthy
bankers and their families, is rather
a gorgeous joint. Discreetly tucked
down Draycott Avenue, Papillon is
elegance personified. As soon as
I entered the restaurant I was sold,
for this is one sexy place! A semi
circular room decorated in muted
colours, of mushroom, browns and
beiges creating a very intimate feel.
Boys, this is definitely one hell
of a place to impress the ladies,
rarely have I loved an interior as
much as I did this one. (This is
the work of designer is Russell Sage,
who I had never heard of, but then
I am not very up the world of interiors
- or fashion designing which apparently
he is better known for). The conical
lighting is subdued and flattering,
and some seating is boothed and circular
which is always my preferred choice
of dining. There is a cosy and convivial
ambience to the place and it is a
restaurant where you might just dress
to kill, as it would be a shame not
to look your best in such glamorous
surroundings.
There
is a serious wine list with some
750 to choose between, all with reasonable
mark ups. The General Manager and
award-winning sommelier Philippe
Messy certainly knows his stuff and
was hugely helpful in pairing wines
to suit our taste buds and palates.
In the kitchen is Chef David Duverger,
late of the highly regarded but now
sadly now closed Putney Bridge restaurant
who seems to be doing a sterling
job if our meal was anything to go
by.
After
a glass of champagne had wetted our
appetites, (anything less in such
a stylish place would have seemed
inappropriate) we tucked into the
menu which is heavily French influenced.
I began with a pheasant white pudding
with morel sauce, both rich and light
at the same time, the pheasant not
being over powering. I tried a glass
of Chardonnay, Macon Milly-Lamartine
2004, which was surprisingly crisp
and light, cutting through the richness
of the mousse. My guest had a salad
of deep fried poached egg, trompettes
with cured ham and a rocket salad,
it was beautiful to look at and was
light and tasty with satisfying flavours.
A Chignin-Bergeron 2002 made a very
rich accompaniment. Being a greedy
pair we also shared a pan fried scallop
with Jerusalem artichoke purée, which
was pure comfort food, creamy flavours
with a touch of bacon.
To
follow, my guest had a fabulous roast
venison with lentils and peppered
sauce, the meat was really tender
and pink in the middle, and was served
with well flavoured bacon and spiced
lentils. Her accompanying wine -
a rich and buttery on the nose Cahors
(Malbec) 2002 had a perfect creamy,
peppery taste and a soft finish.
I had a satisfying plate of plump
and tender turbot “Grand Mere”. This
came served with salty bacon bits
with provided a good contrast to
the turbot which was fishy without
being overpowering. To finish,
we shared a terrific orange crepe
soufflé with light mousse and custard
style interior.
I’m
sure Papillon is already a huge hit
with the cognoscenti who regularly
frequent this part of town. It is
open seven days a week and is apparently
even open for breakfast, but as I
would imagine the ladies who lunch
are not up much before 11am, I was
left wondering who will grace its
tables at that hour?
Dinner
for two with wine, water etc around £110.00
Louise
Elgin. November 2006
Papillon
96 Draycott Avenue
London SW3 Tel: 020 7225 2555
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