The Portman, Upper Berkeley Street, London Restaurant Review

Reviewed by Louise Elgin

The Portman
51 Upper Berkeley Street
London W1
Tel: 020 7723 8996

There were two things that really stood out and impressed me about The Portman, a newly re-furbished Victorian pub and restaurant in W1. Firstly, they are serious about animal husbandry, with their produce coming from The Holcot Estate –a midlands farm with high levels of welfare, and secondly they are big on game. Quite surprisingly, it is rare to find the likes of pheasant and partridge on a London restaurant menu, and yet they both make for a wonderful and appetising choice on a dark and cold winter’s eve. Although situated just behind the chaos of Oxford Street, near the Marble Arch end, once inside it is easy to relax and forget the marauding masses nearby. On the ground floor is a very civilised and attractive pub, with a good choice of bitters on tap including Theakstons Old Peculiar. There is also an attractive bar menu, which is available continuously throughout opening hours.

If you fancy a more formal dining experience, the upstairs has been turned into a restaurant with the atmosphere of a small private club, with seating for around 40 people. The theme is elegant but formal, with decorative wallpaper with a number of ‘olde’ prints of well known London landmarks. A long banquette upholstered in yellow leather extends along two sides of the room. The chairs, upholstered in yellow fabric with dark frames smartly contrast against white starched tablecloths, with tables grouped in fours and two’s. There is one particularly cosy table – no 52 – suitable for two or three diners which would get my vote every time. My only gripe on the first impressions basis was that perhaps the music – which was playing the same both up and downstairs – didn’t quite fit the ambience of the refined elegance of the dining room.

From a choice of six starters all priced around £7.00 we began with a very wholesome and pleasing game terrine. It came served with thin triangles of toast and a delicious sweet apple, pear and cider chutney that complimented beautifully the rich flavours on the palate. Our other starter, Dorset crab, tasted very fresh with a good lemony kick. Presented with a fan of avocado and thin slithers of toast it was artistically presented and very pleasing to the eye and was light on the stomach. With this we tried a glass of house white wine – a French Languedoc Roussillon 2009, which was fruity and palatable and very affordable at £17.50 a bottle. The wine list in general had us amused as it was split into sections such as ‘elegant and racy’ and ‘gentle and approachable’ and ‘because life is short’ and was priced accordingly.

To follow I had a plate of succulent and tender partridge, served with apples, chestnuts and potatoes, and a rich blackberry jus – real winter food and a pleasure to eat. With this, I selected a rich and spicy Chilean Merlot with a punchy kick, again, very affordable at £18.95 a bottle. My guests plate of roast best end of lamb came with carrot puree, spinach, rosemary jus, and Pithivier Savoyarde – a tasty pastry ‘dome’ encased with Parma ham and creamy potatoes. Other alternatives included herb encrusted cod with pancetta and braised lentils and rib of beef with a mustard and shallot crust and autumn vegetables.

From the choice of five puddings and British cheese selection which were all prices around £5.50, we chose a trio of English Berries. This comprised of a tempting plate of velvety blackberry mousse, creamy raspberry crème Brule, and fruity blueberry crumble. With this we also shared a very enjoyable trio of sorbets in lime, passion fruit and raspberry.

The philosophy behind the Portman (who’s owners are also behind The Only Running Footman in Mayfair and The House in Islington) is to have created an environment where people and have what they want – be that a cocktail, a pint, a pie, a coffee or a three course meal with vintage champagne. Sounds good to me!

Louise Elgin. November 2010.

A three course meal with wine and water is about £50.00 a head.