Review by Charles Saumarez

837 W Fulton Market Chicago, IL 60607
(312) 733-9555

As I start my grand tour across America, I do not go without sussing out some decent eateries along the way first. For my first leg of the trip, I am saddened to learn that Charlie Trotters is no longer with us, having closed in August 2012. Such alternative arrangements directed me to another well known Chicago restaurant group. Under the highly acclaimed Donald J Madia and Chef Paul Kahan, operating two such restaurants in a slightly off the beating track part of West Chicago among the far less touristy part of Chicago.

The flagship restaurant The Blackbird had been booked out weeks ago, so the suitable alternative was the slightly more informal eatery The Publican. Bracing the harsh Chicago winds and still feeling slightly ropey (the previous night, I had reached the inevitable conclusion that jet lag and sampling the extensive micro breweries in the area is not the most fruitful of endeavors) I had trekked (all part of the adventure) across to West Fulton Market, with all kinds of anticipations and a growling stomach.

The interior was a swathe of heavy wood furniture, in the form of booths, long communal tables and individual bar seats, overlooking the open plan kitchen. The ceiling was a matrix large pearly lamps striking a resemblance to large white alien eggs. The servers all wore a combo of checked shirts and brown piano remover coats. There were pictures of pigs in various shapes and forms, not unlike he St John Chophouse in Smithfield, London. I knew this was informal dining at it’s best without stuffy pretentiousness. The thing I liked most about the Publican was the lack of barriers to communal dining, with the emphasis on shared tables and the many bar seats. I had a nice close view of the open kitchen, with the cold counter at the front. I was strongly reminded of Anthony Bourdain’s early years from kitchen confidential watching the rhymatic poetry in motion which was the evening rush. The menu told a story of adventure, colour, land, sea true American hearty chophouse style eating. The beer and wine menu was totally different tale of discovery, palates from around the world and merry ending!

With the menu being mainly sharing platter style, I started off with a couple of oysters (you can’t not when such a wide selection was on offer) having picked out a Dabob Bay and Peters Point (Washington State and Massachusetts respectively).

My main entree of pork short ribs from Slagel Family Farm, Fairbury, Illinois by no means fell short of expectations. Being a combination of hearty, smokey, succulent married with sweet tangy exotic flavours, dotted with crunchy little fleurettes of cauliflower and butternut squash, the most accurate rendition was that I was eating America! My accompanying carafe of Chateau Barreyre from Bordeaux served not in a wine glass but a tumbler, a true reminder of my student days and rural France. Dark, oaked yet fruity and heavy tannin matched well with the succulent meat and the mix of complex flavours of the main dish. All the time this was going on, I was watching a new bartender being put through his paces being tutored on the finer points of mixing a Negroni (incidentally my cocktail of choice).

I exchanged a few words with my friendly server before my dessert of Rice Pudding brulee served with nougatine, rice crispy praline and a macadamia ice cream, served in novelty coffee cup the size of a soup bowl. It again failed to disappoint, being hot and crisp on top just how a brulee should be combined with a toasty aroma of the praline. Although refreshing I failed to finish, being unaccustomed to the generosity of American servings!

Upon thanking my server who said that England was on his bucket list, I had to leave the warm undercurrent of the Publican and brace the unforgiving sub zero Chicago evening outside.

The Publican is the kind of place good for either large groups of if your a solo explorer, offering an unique American hospitality, with exceptional value for money. Booking is essential though!

837 W Fulton Market Chicago, IL 60607
(312) 733-9555

http://thepublicanrestaurant.com