One Blenheim Terrace
London NW8
Tel: 020 7372 1722
Over the years, dining-rooms come and go, some turning into much loved favourites, some, for no real reason seem destined to fail. The restaurant on the corner of Abbey Road and Blenheim Terrace has changed hands a number of times in recent years and has recently been re-launched as One Blenheim Terrace.
Situated in this quiet residential area of affluent St. John’s Wood, it appears to already be a hit as the night I visited it was fully booked. This may have something to do with the fact that the Head Chef, Ed Shaerf, has honed his craft at some of the country’s finest addresses, including The Fat Duck, Claridges and The Ivy. The dining-room is large and airy, with a conservatory aspect which must come into its own in the summer months. Tables are well-spaced, walls are muted colours, and the lighting is something reminiscent of the 60’s. There is also a separate large bar and a vast ornate mirror which gives a feeling of doubling the room’s length.
The menu is concise, with a choice of six starters and six main courses with no specials, and the theme of the food being a play on retro classics updated for the 21st Century. Wine is available by the glass, bottle or carafe. We commenced with a highly refreshing glass of Argentine Chardonnay Mendoza, 2009 Gouguenheim with crisp and clear concentrated flavours.
The starters included lobster Bolognese and beef tartar royale, served with caviar. I choose a plate of Welsh rarebit. As promised, this had been de-constructed, being served in the form of a feather-light cheese soufflé with a comforting white onion and cider soup. Added to this were roasted button onions and cheddar croutons making it ideal winter fuel for the miserable February evening outside. My guest’s plate of Goose liver parfait brulee, was complimented with spiced apple chutney and a serving of walnut toast. He commented it was superbly light in texture and wonderfully fresh on the palate.
To follow, there was something for all palates and appetites. These included a Bouillabaisse, roasted rack of lamb, and a black truffle and forest mushroom risotto made with Champagne and Pecorino cheese. The Beef Wellington was a two person serving which suited us perfectly. It was brought to the table in ceremonial style and carved in front of us. A glossy and gleaming pastry case, once cut open contained the pink beef, which was beautifully tender and melt in the mouth, the pastry casing stuffed with foie gras and served with a truffle jus. This also came with a complete head of garlic and fresh spinach, and we had some side orders of French beans, roast potatoes and salad. Needless to say we were in Foodie heaven. With this we drank a tantalising ruby red 2008 Joffe Passion 4 Argentinian Merlot with hints of blackberry and raspberry on the nose, greatly enhancing the flavours on the palate.
Before we got down to the serious business of choosing a pudding we had a very Heston Blumenthal style pre-dessert palate cleanser, a liqueur glass filled with liquefied popcorn which was certainly nothing like anything I had ever had before and bizarrely enjoyable! To finish, we had to try the apple tart tartin. Again, this was served for two but boy did we choose well. It came straight from the oven, glistening with plump apple pieces that had a caramel glaze. The pastry was feather-light and it had accompanying vanilla ice-cream, a veritable culinary masterpiece. Also on offer were nursery favourites such as rhubarb and custard and the 70’s throwback Black Forest Gateaux and I would have enjoyed seeing how it had been de-constructed, but alas, maybe on my next visit.
This is somewhere to go with a large appetite and a sense of adventure to enable you to enjoy the fun that is going on in the kitchen and get the most out of the excellent cooking.
Louise Elgin. February 2012.
A three course meal with wine and water is around £75.00 a head.