The Black Boys Inn, Hurley – Reviewed By Dr T.R.Ling

Seldom is one compelled to write, but exceptional circumstances prevail!

You see, the Black Boys Inn, Hurley on Thames is a place of integrity, carefully restored it retains all its original fetures. Huge wood burning stove, light wooden beams, polished oak floor in all a decor that has a light modern feel.

It would fair to say one does not go for the service it is at best curt and sardonic, but me as a regular says this shouldn’t deter you, for the cooking of Simon Bonwick the chef is on hand to provide a consistantly refined cuisine bourgeois, you know the type from your hoildays in France in the 60’s and 70’s.

Salcombe crab with avocado mayonnaise comes with a dollop of extravagent sevruga cavair, and crab biscuit. All is fresh and clean tasteing like a spring morning, funny its Autumn !

To follow there is a plate of venison, all carefully handled, heart stuffed and braised, cheek and liver, buttered spinach, a rosey cutlet with rosti potato and a highly polished sauce flavoured deeply with rowanberrys. Rewarding and satisfing in artistry and tastes.

An iced lemon fondant with a compot of raspberrys, puts one, how should I say frozen in time, like in a beautifully clean summer garden, trimmed lawns and all that in July. Funny its Autumn !!

Coffee, macaroons and chocolates are rustic in a french domestic way, 50 odd wines by the glass we chose a Sarget 93 at £65 a bottle, a bottle 3 times the price at a near by Michelin Bib Gourmand place, but why carp when the cooking of such a good chef is on hand. £70 for two without wine, but with coffee is a steal, shame about the service.

The Black Boys Inn, Hurley
The Black Boys Inn
Henley Road,
Hurley,
SL6 5NQ
Tel 01628 824212

See another review at:
The Black Boys Inn Restaurant Review