The Collection, Brompton Road, SW3 – Restaurant Review

The Collection
264 Brompton Road
London SW3 2AS
Tel: 020 7225 1212

It’s good to see that The Collection is open again after a period of closure, complete with its new sexy interior designed by Tom Dixon. It really is one of those places that has to be seen to be believed and has, once again, become a magnet for the beautiful people. From its entrance on Brompton Cross, The Collection is accessed by a long and lighted glamorous catwalk style walkway that leads directly into the vast downstairs bar. On arrival there is most definitely a feeling of having arrived somewhere very on trend. The building is enormous, with a warehouse feel, which indeed it once was. A sensation of space is evident; with simple modern brickwork, metal supports, vast windows, light installations, and a mezzanine section above housing a restaurant. From Thursday to Saturday nights there is a DJ perched up on high, giving the place a nightclub feel as the music pumps endlessly and loudly. Meanwhile down below, the bar steadily fills with glossy locked, preened females and designer-clad metrosexuals, working their way through the cocktail list with no sign of the on-going recession in evidence.

We moved upstairs to the restaurant for dinner which, as I mentioned, is situated on a mezzanine with a bird’s eye view of the bar. If voluble music is not your thing, perhaps you need to eat here on a Sunday to Wednesday night when things are a lot quieter with no loud music being pumped out, although I fear the place would lose its vibrant atmosphere which is part of its pull. However if like me, you enjoy people watching, come when things are at full throttle as you’ll be in for a treat.

The restaurant is attractively set out, with the kitchen on full view at one end. Tables are well-spaced and the seating is comfortable. Service is switched on and efficient, with knowledgeable, smartly-attired staff. Our waiter,Romano, knew the menu inside out and was brilliant at describing the dishes. The Head Chef, Alex Fanzola, is a disciple of Mediterranean cooking and sources his ingredients from small suppliers with excellent pedigrees. The menu is split into sections, with the starters consisting of small, tapas style dishes, of which there are many to choose from with something for everyone, veggies included. Having made our way through a wonderful selection of house breads served with a collection of flavoured virgin olive oils that included basil, truffle and lemon, we began our feasting. Commencing with a creamy and silky burrata, a plate of spicy buffalo tartare, tender, smokey squid with a piquant kick of chilli and a plate of tender, melt in the mouth smoked duck, with crunchy beans. To follow, there was plenty of choice for all palates and appetites. I had a succulent plate of sea bass that had been baked in a salt crust. It was perfectly cooked, very fresh, and served with a sauce of Mediterranean flavours. We also tried some tender and spicy barbequed grouper with contrasting cool and spicy sauces, together with a side order of courgettes tossed with pine nuts and raisins. To drink we tried the house white wine, an Italian Trebbiano/Chardonnay 2010, which was palatable, refreshing and very drinkable.
To finish, due to the lightness of the cooking, I had just enough room for dessert. From the choice of nine puddings I had a feather light pear and walnut tart. It was artistically presented with a perfect balance of flavours and a subtle cinnamon sauce. A creamy orange and cinnamon rice pudding with rosewater ice-cream and pomegranate sauce was also pronounced first rate.

By 11pm the lights were lowered, the music was cranked up, and a nightclub atmosphere had descended downstairs in the bar as a seemingly sea of testosterone was erupting before our eyes.

The Collection is a great fun place to take a group of twenty/thirty something’s who want a fun night out. Dinner can be cheap or expensive, depending what you choose. Overall, fun will be had and a memorable evening can be confidently predicted.

Louise Elgin. October 2011.

Cocktails around £10.00
House wine £18.00
A three course dinner for two with wine and water is around £75 a head.

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