Michael Pelham treads in Hardy and Austen's footsteps

Far from the Madding Crowd is a particularly apposite description of Summer Lodge, for here we are in the heart of the "Hardy Country", which Thomas Hardy wrote about in his Tales of Wessex and in his poems. He was born not far from here, at Upper Bockhampton, and he depicted Evershead (or Evershot), which must be little changed since he knew it, as the place where Tess of the d'Urbervilles breakfasted on her way to Emminster to see Angel Clare's parents. "Tess's Cottage" still stands next to the church.

There are other literary associations. Jane Austen's favourite poet, George Crabbe, was Rector of Evershot in the late 18th century. Henry Fielding grew up at East Stour, North Dorset, Rupert Brooke spent several holidays at Lulworth Cove and wrote there the poem which starts

Lawrence of Arabia's last home was the little cottage at Cloud's Hill and he is buried at Moreton, whose charming Gothic church has clear glass windows, all engraved by Laurence Whistler.

There can be no better place to be based for exploring this lovely and unspoilt part of England than Summer Lodge. The hotel is a member of the Relais & Chateaux Group, which is a recommendation in itself, for membership is not granted lightly. The house used to be the Dower House for the Earls of Ilchester, whose Melbury House (Hardy's King's Hintock Court) and park lie at the foot of the village. Summer Lodge is a Georgian House, with a beautiful garden, a swimming pool, grass and hard tennis courts and a croquet lawn. Roses, wisteria, nasturtiams and geraniums clamber up the sides of the house and cascade from window boxes. A gate through a thick yew hedge leads on to the steep hill which forms the little village street, where Jane Austen's "Emma" was recently filmed. One has to wonder which was the prime reason for their choice of venue: the picturesqueness of the village or because the production team could stay at Summer Lodge! Probably both.

Inside, the whole atmosphere is particularly attractive. The girls who form the staff are clearly carefully picked and trained. You are welcomed warmly. They introduce themselves, and from first to last will always remember your name. All the public rooms are full of light and fresh flowers. Drawing rooms and dining room have large windows opening out into the garden, with fine lawns and big, but happily informal herbaceous borders. Everywhere there are views of hills and farm-lands beyond.

The bed-rooms, also, are luxuriously furnished without ostentation. If I had to choose two adjectives to describe Summer Lodge, I think they would have to be "luxurious" and "peaceful". The standards are, quietly, outstandingly high throughout the whole hotel, in every department. Some of the rooms are in the attractively converted out-buildings, including what must have been stables in earlier days. There are some rooms suitable for wheel chairs.

In such a place, it is no surprise to find that the food is superb. A typical Table d'Hote menu would be grilled fillet of sea bass; tomato and basil soup; roast duck with honey and five spice, or pan fried skate wing; chocolate and pear tart or local farmhouse cheeses with excellent homemade breads.

The a la carte menu includes, for first courses, terrine of wild rabbit with warm rosemary bread; boudin of Dover sole marbled with truffles, on a bed of creamed leeks; local Denhay air dried ham with galia melon and a raspberry vinaigrette; a superb risotto of lobster bound with parmesan and saffron, served with a lobster sauce; shallot tatin with pan fried lamb sweetbreads. Main courses might be roast partridge or grouse in season; pan fried scallops; marinated saddle of venison; fish of the day; medallions of Scotch beef fillet; breast of chicken with onions,herbs and garlic.

The splendid dessert menu includes an exotic rice pudding with char grilled pineapple and mango; chocolate and orange mousse; caramel ice cream with hot banana fritters; baked apple in filo pastry in a Calvados sauce.

There is an extensive wine list with an excellent selection of good French wines, as well as some from the newer wine producing areas. It is good to see some grands premier crus on a list, even if they may have to be for high days and holidays. In my view they are reasonably priced, considering the rarity and compared with the prices on London menus and at the wine auctions I frequent. There are also some excellent white Burgundies. More modest wines are available from 11.75.

The "Dorset cream teas" laid out in the drawing room each day, where you help yourself, are quite a feature.

Summer Lodge is a most attractive, fairly small, luxurious but un-ostentatious place - and a great base for exploring the "Hardy Country" and a particularly beautiful and unspoilt part of England. Even the brochures that Mr and Mrs Corbett, the tirelessly conscientious and welcoming proprietors, have produced, are a delight, with their attractive water-colour illustrations: a fore-taste of the joys awaiting one.

Prices per room for afternoon tea,dinner, bed and breakfast start at 145 single or 215 double or twin-bedded. Discounts are available for stays of 3 days or more excluding Sundays. Table d'Hote dinner is 32.50.

Summer Lodge, Evershot, Dorset DT2 0JR
Tel:01935 83424 Fax: 01935 83005

Our correspondent Michael Pelham is Proprietor of Pelham Tours, which organises sporting, gastronomic, musical and other tours in the UK and Europe.