Sheene Mill - near Cambridge
Penny Cottee dispels some illusions

It's always interesting to compare one's expectations with reality.

I pictured a visit to the latest 'in' venue. A restaurant pulsing with a transient crowd of noisy wanna-bee-seens. I dreaded a heavy and pretentious menu, funky but agonising chairs, and photos of grinning pop idols in bosom-buddy clinches with the famous chef.

So here I am to tell you that I have rarely been more wrong. Sheene Mill is a delight - for many reasons...

The traditional mill building has been gently restored and presents a pretty face, with its ramshackle tiled roofs and boarded facades. But the real beauty lies behind - a serene millpond bordered by huge weeping willows, an expanse of lawns, a posse of dozing ducks, and purple flowers tumbling over old brick walls at the patio's edge. It's stunningly English.

Inside, the mood is intimate, low-ceilinged and welcoming. The conservatory has saggy sofas from which you can gaze at the changing light across the millpond. Here, it's 'Wine of the Month' chalk boards and chat. Relaxed, and very relaxing. The restaurant has a Mediterranean feel, with whispering ceiling fans, vibrant yellow walls, parlour palms, and candelit tables, the ambience gently helped along by the nightly jazz pianist. It's elegant and sophisticated,  yet it stays just this side of formality.

Chef Steven Saunders - known as the Green Gourmet - creates a new menu every day. He's deeply committed to fresh, organic ingredients from local suppliers. 'I just don't see the sense of flying mange-tout in from Kenya,' he told us later, 'and we're losing our enjoyment of the seasonality of food.'

But being local and fresh doesn't mean boring and (ha!) run of the mill. It's a surprisingly eclectic menu, with international influences. Steven says that comes partly from his own travels, and partly from the students he brings over from his cookery school in the States to train in the kitchen, who add their own cultural heritage to the mix.

Every evening diner is given an 'amuse-gueule' and we had chilled cucumber, mint and crème fraiche in a miniature cup. A lovely touch, I thought. Tempted by both the Tempura of Tiger Prawns and Sweet Chilli, and the Sashimi of Beef, Sushi Ginger and Wasabi Mustard, I chose instead Asparagus with Lightly Smoked Mozzarella, Tomato Confit and Balsamic Vinegar to start. I asked if the asparagus was local. 'It's from next door,' came the reply. Steven has made a deal with the neighbouring nursery, which grows his organic produce as he requires it.

The asparagus had the lightest of crunches and the delicate flavour held its own beautifully against the intensity of the tomato and balsamic vinegar. The smokiness of the mozzarella had more of a struggle, but when tasted alone, had definite smoky undertones. My husband tried the Deep Fried Local Goats Cheese with Onion Chutney & Salad of Herbs. It was a lively combination, the dryness of the goats cheese playing well with the chutney, and the herbs were so fresh I could smell them from where I was sitting.

Both were beautifully presented on unusually shaped plates - mine square, my husband's oval. And while we're on the table (which is deliberately simple), the cutlery is interesting. It's by Robert Welch, modern, and all pieces have a wave in the stem. It looks gorgeous and feels good in the hand, too.

We were settling in nicely now, watching diners arrive, many clearly regulars. (Not a Big Brother contestant or a pop idol in sight, by the way). Intriguing dishes sashayed past to 'Girl from Ipanema', and the chat level was rising as our Pouilly Fume was going down. The 85 restaurant covers were all but taken by 9.30pm. Not bad for a Wednesday night. Steven told us that local diners have had to shift their booking habits - particularly during the summer - as Friday and Saturday evenings are taken up with wedding parties.

The main course had been a tough decision. Here, a daily menu doesn't mean a small menu. Seven proposals, including Fillet of Angus 28 Day Beef, Duck with Sweet Potato Puree, Baked Organic Salmon, Chump of Free Range Welsh lamb (isn't all lamb free range?), and Slow Roasted Organic Red Pepper with Halloumi Cheese Rice. I settled on the Roasted Longline Monkfish, Saffron Risotto, Vine Tomato Butter Sauce & Roasted Peppers. Husband took the lamb, which was billed with Creamy Mash & Roasted Vegetables, Thyme Jus.

Again, very appealing presentation, and good sized portions - neither dauntingly large nor trendily small. The monkfish was firm and delicious, and its tomato sauce made a spirited companion. The kick of the sauce and roasted peppers was well judged, as risotto can become rather bland without a side interest. My husband's lamb was a gentle pink and pure velvet in texture. I'd like to track down the recipe for the Thyme Jus - it was a gorgeous base flavour which brought the herbs to the lamb.

From the dessert menu - five choices and cheese selection - we chose Bitter Chocolate Tart with Crème Chantilly & Orange Salad, and Classic Organic Lemon Tart and Kirsch Cherries. The lemon tart was wonderful, with an intense, electric shock of lemon flavour. The dainty cherries in their own side dish stood no chance - I was already in love with the citrus explosion. The chocolate tart was soft and rich, with a pleasingly moist texture (some chocolate creations can be so dry).

Over coffee we pondered the great value of the food - it was a lovely dining experience in elegant surroundings without a ludicrous price tag. This is, apparently, Steven's aim with Sheene Mill. The restaurant is simple and comfortable - the service is good but no-one flaps your napkin across your lap when you sit - and the emphasis is clearly on fresh, exciting menus at a reasonable cost.

Shunning the cost of a sommelier, Steven also keeps the wine prices down. Plenty of choice in the £16-£22 range, some £30s-£40s, and a couple of £80s. Our Pouilly Fume, for example, was £21.50.

Steven owns the famous formal, fine-dining establishment, the Pink Geranium, also in Melbourn, but some time ago he passed the management of it to another team, preferring to try a new venture at Sheene Mill. 'We seem to have hit on an approach that works,' says Steven. 'People just keep coming.'

Penny Cottee, August 2003

Dinner Menu: Starters £6.50 Main courses £17.00 Desserts £6.50 Cheese £8.50
Wine List: House wines from £12.95
Lunch 12.00-2.00 (last booking)
Dinner 7.00-9.30 (last booking)
Open every day, lunch only on Sunday

Sheene Mill Hotel and Restaurant
Melbourn, Cambridgeshire, SG8 6DX
Tel: 01763 261393
www.sheenemill.co.uk

Penny Cottee is a freelance journalist and editor