Michael
Hepworth had a very special lunch
at the Latymer Restaurant at
Pennyhill Park
Pennyhill
Park Hotel and Country Club in Bagshot,
Surrey, has recently been upgraded
by the AA to five star hotel status.
This puts enormous pressure on their
fine dining restaurant to live up
to such lofty ideals, not to mention
high prices. But it's good news for
our Dine-Online readers looking to
splurge out or celebrate a special
occasion: you will not be disappointed
but will almost certainly remember
your visit for sometime as something
special.
The
head chef, Karl Edmunds, pictured
right has been at the hotel
for nine years and although the
demands of both conferences and
banqueting are very intense,
the Latymer remains his special
baby. Edmunds has a very talented
sous-chef in Ian Hodgkins who
has his own brigade of five more
chefs dedicated to the task of
maintaining the highest possible
standards in the Latymer.
It's
clear that Edmunds and his team
are serious contenders for a
Michelin Star, but for the moment
he is content with 3 AA Rosettes
and a similar accolade from the
RAC. This is a pretty good achievement
considering that the kitchen
burned down last year and they
had to operate from temporary
facilities for almost eleven
months. Now Edmunds presides
over a state-of-the-art kitchen
costing £1.5m.
The
dining room itself seats only
36, but it is absolutely delightful
in true Country House style with
tapestries, linenfold pannelling
and impressive looking silver
table decorations depicting various
quarries. We had a very noble
looking silver stag adorning
our spacious table. There's plenty
of atmosphere even at lunchtime,
and in the evening the oil lamps
lend a more sophisticated charm.
We
ate a lunch chosen entirely from
the a la carte menu which is
available both at midday and
in the evening. We got off to
a good start with an amuse caviar
on melba bread which is served
to everyone in the bar before
going into the dining room. Then,
at the table, came a selection
of freshly baked breads. My guest
made a special note of the cheese
bread which he described "out
of this world".
He
was just as effusive about his
starter, a Sautée of Foie
Gras with Soured Apple Brioche
and Morel Jus, using the word "terrific" a
lot, reserving particular praise
for the rich texture of the jus.
My selection of Warm Pigeon and
Celeriac Tart was just as outstanding,
a marvellously creative combination
with an incredibly intense sauce
made from a walnut oil infusion.
We
were refreshed by an orange and
white wine granita which
is served to every diner between
courses. It's the little touches
like this, which when so well
done, make such a lot of difference
and help the guests to feel that
bit special.
We
could hardly wait for the main
courses which, at the risk of
sounding repetitive and predictable,
were also brilliant. My selection
was a Fillet of Beef on a gateau
of spinach with wild mushrooms
topped with, yes you guessed
it, Foie Gras. This is a classic
combination of top quality ingredients
and flavours that work so well
together. My friend chose the Panache
of Seafood with Saffron Linguini
in a tomato and herb broth. The
presentation was dramatically
enhanced by the presence of a
large langoustine clambering,
so it seemed, over the edge of
the bowl. The meat had been removed
from its shell and it tasted
really lobster- y. Included in
this attractive looking dish
was Red Mullet in a piquant sauce,
crab and several other small
pieces of fish complemented by
the delicious saffron flavoured
broth to make an exceptional
taste experience. Other main
courses included Pan fried John
Dory, Saddle of Rabbit, Baked
Halibut and Scallops and Ravioli
of Goats Cheese.
By
now we were really on the look
out for anything that we could
find to criticise, as, sad to
say, it's so much easier to be
witty and droll about a restaurant's
shortcomings than their achievements.
But this was not to be! With
such good bread served earlier,
it came as no surprise to find
that the pastry department is
as talented as any I've come
across. I enjoyed Chocolate Disks
layered with Raspberries in a
light chocolate mousse, and my
guest's warm Apricot tart with
nectarine and peach encased in
caramel was very pretty both
to the eye as well as to the
palate.
For
the wines, we were recommended
to try the Cape Mentelle Western
Australian white with the starters,
and a racy 1997 red Beaujolais
Cru from Brouilly to go with
the main course - both choices
turned out to be perfectly matched
to the food. The sommelier's
wine book is a work of art in
itself, illustrated with tasting
notes and labels.
Another
word of credit must be reserved
for the helpful restaurant manager Gyula
Folmer who really knows his
stuff. This lunch was a real
treat, every part of the meal
was sheer delight, so we hope
you will go along and enjoy yourselves
just as much. We found the Latymer
restaurant to be capable of the
very highest culinary achievement
so we felt the high prices were
justified in terms of value for
money.
The
cost of your meal:
A la carte starters £16.00 to £20.00 - mains: £24.50 to £30.00
- desserts £10.00
Menu Gourmand: seven courses including coffee and petits fours £65.00
3
course lunch menu £26.00
- 3 course dinner menu £35.00
The
Latymer Restaurant, Pennyhill
Park, London Road, Bagshot,
Surrey
Reservations: Tel-01276-471774 Fax-01276-473217
Nearest Train Station - Sunningdale. Dress - Smart
Pennyhill
Park is a member of Grand Heritage
Hotels
International reservations: +44(0) 171 244 6699 Fax 244 7799
email info@grandheritage.demon.co.uk
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