Enigma, Maida Vale W9

Louise Elgin cracked it!  

Any restaurant opening within walking distance of my flat is good news. Add the bonus that the food is Mediterranean and you're likely to see my face light up. So I just had to try the aptly named Enigma situated in Little Venice, (the posh part of Maida Vale). Enigma is named after Alan Turing, the World War II enigma code breaker who was born right next door, (now a small boutique hotel) and where quite rightly he is commemorated with a blue plaque.

We entered the restaurant via its terrace which will no doubt come into its own in on summer evenings. With room for up to 30 diners it has plenty of space heaters at the ready in case it turns chilly. Walking down a spiral staircase, we entered what was a very laid back and comfortable interior, with well-spaced tables, subdued lighting and mood music. Altogether a very relaxing and intimate environment to dine away a couple of hours. The place generated a very new and clean feel, from the sparkling glasses to the gleaming cutlery.

The menu consisted of eight starters priced from £5.00 to £8.00. These included Pan-fried scallops and sweet potato rosti with a tomato and citrus salsa (£8.00), or Borlotti bean soup served with homemade tagliatelle and rosemary oil (£6). Seven main courses priced from £9.00 to £14.50 included Grilled sea bass served with saffron mash and pan-fried wild mushrooms (£13.50), and saffron risotto with ratatouille of vegetables and taleggio cheese (£9). There were also daily specials; the night we visited there was home made tortellini with taleggio, (a soft cheese) mushrooms cream and truffle oil. Priced at £9.50 for a starter and £12.50 for a main course. Trout fillets cooked in a Mediterranean style with tomatoes and olives (£14.00).

In the meantime our appetites were being whetted with a little bruschetta topped with the classic Italian favourites, tomato, avocado and parmesan. This was piquant, tangy and refreshing the flavours setting off nicely with our chosen wine, a Terlaner "Cantine Terlano" 2001 (21.50). A blend of Pinot Blanco and Sauvignon which was a touch acidic for my palate but very refreshing and took me straight back to balmy nights on the Italian Riviera.

After much umming and aahing and changing of minds, (we girlies' prerogative after all!) we finally came to a decision. My guest commenced with homemade pumpkin and beef casoncelli (ravioli to you and me!) with wild mushroom sauce £7.50. It arrived beautifully presented, the long rectangular casoncelli surrounding a centre of wild mushrooms. She said it had a rich dense flavour, the pasta supporting the beef taste well with a delicious hint of pumpkin. I commenced with a very healthy starter, a mixed vegetable timbale with smoked buffalo mozzarella and sundried tomato dressing £6.00, - a tower of peppers, courgettes and aubergine interlaced with the smoked mozzarella all mingling superbly with the tomato dressing.

For main course my guest chose the roasted veal cutlet served with caramelised shallots, boiled vegetables and balsamic mashed potato (£14.00). She said it was beautifully presented, the meat tender and full of flavour, the caramelised shallots giving that extra something to the meat. Her only criticism was the mash was a touch too balsamic in flavour for her palate. I chose the "special", trout fillets cooked in a Mediterranean style. This was light, appetising and flavoursome, with plenty of cherry tomatoes, olives and a subtle lemony flavour that had me mentally booking my Italian summer holiday.

With not much room for pudding, but committed to the cause, we ploughed on regardless, loosening belts and buttons in the process. Promising myself an extra workout at the gym the following day, which of course, never transpired, we shared chocolate tart and a mango parfait, (desserts all at £5.00). These were the highlight of the meal and were stunningly presented; the chocolate tart beautifully fresh served on a glass plate with a white chocolate stick, lump of vanilla ice cream and slices of fig. The richness of the chocolate offset by the ice cream, a rich and light combination. Mango parfait, a cross between a sorbet and an ice cream was very good, served with slices of fresh mango we tried our best to finish it but it was a little on the rich side.

Here are all the right ingredients for a successful restaurant, a good location that's packed with residents but has few places to eat, a relaxed atmosphere and good food at reasonable prices, all making Enigma a code name worth remembering.

Enigma    2 Warrington Crescent London W9 Tel 020 7432-8455

Louise Elgin. March 2003