Dune,
11 Haymarket London SW1
Louise Elgin slipped into a pretty cocktail number and headed for the Haymarket
Dune
is a very slick establishment, split
into two defined areas. At the front
there is a groovy bar with low lighting,
muted décor and booth style seating,
a Tapas style menu and all manner
of drinks (including specially created
house cocktails from mixologists
Douglas Ankrah and Richard Hargroves).
Tables are glass-topped and encased
with orchids, with scattered low
stools - all creating a mismatch
of styles that somehow works. Loud
and disco-ish music generates the
feel of a nightclub.
At the rear lies
the large, formal and spacious restaurant
with its collection of exceptional
wines in glass cases as well as visually
stunning chandeliers comprising of
mother of pearl shells, crystal drops
and feather boas. There is yet more
beautiful lighting in the form of
crystal jellyfish drops, but there's
a completely different taste in music
- opera this time, loud and blaring,
but somehow fitting the decadent
feel of the room. The menu is contemporary
Mediterranean, with a good selection
of choices for all palates and appetites.
Everything from the cutlery and china
to the table settings are of beautiful
quality and I was glad I had dressed
up for the occasion, as it seemed
fitting.
I began with
a very good mussel and cod soup.
It was rich with wine, cream, garlic
and plenty of mussels, probably highly
fattening but definitely worth the
calories! My guest described her
Moroccan Cromesquis - deep fried
goat’s cheese and smoked duck breast,
as ‘perfect’. It was served with
a medley of beans, carrots and herbs,
and proved a knockout combination.
To follow, she
tried the roasted Andalusian salmon
fillet. It was herb-crusted and came
beautifully served on roasted plums
and oranges. She said the combination
of tastes and flavours blended really
well, the fish being meaty and aromatic,
with a very artistic selection of
vegetables. My roast breast of Catalan
chicken came served en roulade,
each round stuffed with spinach and
almonds. It was moist and fragrant,
very rich and filling, and the most
enormous portion, to which sadly
I couldn’t do justice. To drink,
we tried a bottle of French Pouilly-Fume,
which was fresh and crisp with a
flinty edge. The wine list included
a comprehensive selection with all
budgets covered. Unfortunately, I
could only manage a cup of fresh
mint tea to finish, which proved
a very refreshing end to my meal.
I had a good look at the puddings
menu and next time I shall save some
room for the several tempting things
on offer.
Dune is very
unique in its atmosphere and would
be somewhere to go if you are looking
for a bit of bygone age glamour.
It is early days and I think, given
a little time for things to settle,
this newcomer will find its very
own niche market.
Louise Elgin.
April 2006
A three course
meal for two with wine and water
is about £80.00
Dune
11 Haymarket London SW1
(The
restaurant can be accessed through
the bar, or at the side in Orange Street)
Tel: 020
7839 2424
Web: www.dunerestaurants.com
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