There have always been two sittings for dinner here, especially for couples, and with many arrivals at 7pm the whole place with its intangible atmosphere of le bon vie, seems to turn on as if by the flick of a switch. Over a glass of white wine and marinated olives in the front conservatory we chose our fare and were soon guided to a nice large table bang in the centre of the restaurant where there is plenty to see, including a renarkable collection of pictures.
A simple dish of squid strips with parsley, olive oil and lemon was perfection in as far as it went - I am still wondering what happened to the tentacles as they would have given a welcome texture contrast. A nage of turbot, scallops, bass and mussels seasoned with chives and a few leaves of spinach was the other excellent opener.
I splashed out on lobster on the assumption that I'd encounter as definitive an example here as anywhere. They simply cut it in half and grill it before finishing with a delicate herb fumet light butter sauce. This was a treat that lasted some 45 minutes before every last morsel was devoured. Simpler to eat was plain big flaked haddock with a morel sauce and tremendous spring onion and olive oil mashed potato. Simple and delicious, as was the designer white Gaillac we consumed.
Puddings were looking up. Pear poached in port with crêum;me brulée ice cream was just what was needed and a very light victoria plum tart with honey ice cream was a delight. A half bottle of Pacherenc de Vic Bul Octobre 1993 was a super accompaniment with coffee and petits fours to finish.
There is still depressingly little competition in the UK for this class of restaurant and fortunately this place is not yet resting on its laurels. A great Friday evening.
The cost: Stg 104 plus service - food was Stg 72 including Stg 28 supplement for the lobster
Copyright Graham Tigg 1996, All rights reserved.