We ordered a half bottle of Aligoté while deliberating over the menu and tucking into some mixed olives and walnut and sesame bread chosen from a selection of three home made breads. The menu is mostly fish of course with oregano sausages representing the pig. No doubt when the weather limits fish supplies the ratio changes.
Crab pancakes were an obvious first course choice and these were more like spring rolls that had not been deep fried. A lettuce, coriander and lemon grass accompaniment was nearly overpowering. A mackerel tortilla with salsa was inspired. Having expected with much apprehension a dry, crisp corn based tortilla it turned out much more like a type of chappati. The salsa had fresh tomato with plenty of coriander and lemon and was the ideal foil for the lighter summer mackerel fillet.
For our main course, skate poached in a herb vinaigrette with
fennel and small bits of preserved lemon to add unusual piquancy
was original to us. It suffered a little from the flesh on the
underside of the skate which glued itself to the cartilage.
The star dish was crispy skinned red mullet fillets with tomato,
basil and a deep lobster sauce with olive oil mashed potato.
This speaks for itself.
Vegetables or salad are offered and we ordered one of each but seemed to end up with vegetables for two as well as the simple salad. Swede and carrot mash was fantastic, and there were mange touts plus potato dauphinoise. Excellent dauphinoise but not ideal with fish dishes, let alone one that already comes with mashed potato? This appears to be a conundrum of UK provincial restaurants that is driven, I assume, by customer expectations for a selection of vegetables. At least the sea air does wonders for one's appetite.
Strawberries with port zabaglione ice cream plus honey and pistachio nougatine with yoghurt, honey and biscuit twirls were two enjoyable puddings, especially from a fish restaurant. Also excellent was the bottle of Micheltons Marsanne from Oz. There are just two serving staff for the 35 or so covers but they were able to change gear when necessary and coped well.
The chef here, Paul Sellers, cooked at Padstow's Seafood restaurant. My only suggestion would be that when they are able to spend some more money they should improve the lighting - it was hard to see the glorious dishes at twilight.
The cost: Stg. 65 (food Stg. 45), a bargain and a must for any Cornwall
visit.
Many thanks to Paul
Henderson for recommending that we put this into our itinerary.
Copyright Graham Tigg 1996, All rights reserved.