Michels' Restaurant, Ripley, Surrey

Dine Online - the UK Restaurant guide

NB: All prices are shown in pounds sterling

Clifford Mould treats himself to a Surprise Menu, and awards a
Dine Online Accolade

NB: Update 2004
this 1996 review is part of Dine Online's archive. Apparently, fans of Erik Michel still like to revel in a bit of noshtalgia.
Michel's restaurant is now called Drake's named after he of the 2003 Michelin Star.
Erik is now cooking at La Luna in Godalming

Michel's is one of those restaurants that's virtually on my doorstep. I've been past it on countless occasions, always meaning to visit but never quite getting round to it. I've also heard mixed reports, that the food was always good, though this was only grudgingly admitted to by those with the most grudge - that it's too expensive. On the basis of my recent visit I'd refute this criticism, which I believe is made by those who neither understand nor appreciate the cost of providing food and cuisine of this standard.

I'll admit the a la carte is a bit pricey: starters weigh in at around the ten pound mark for warm wild mushroom savarin with chanterelles a la Greque, or rosette of fried artichoke hearts topped with foie gras 13.00. Main courses like cod fillet with sautéed mussels and cockles set on a garlic mayonnais and served with saffron vegetables start at around 19.00. I very much liked the sound of braised boned pig's trotter filled with sweetbreads and black pudding wrapped in puff pastry - tales of Koffman, perhaps? With puddings (an excellent selection mind) at 7.50 and coffee and petits fours for a further 2.50 you could very easily knock up a food bill of 40.00 a head. But if you had a glass of white wine at around two pounds followed by a nice bottle of Crozes Hermitage for only 17.50, two of you could enjoy a seriously memorable dining experience for around the hundred pound mark.

But there are other interesting options available. There's a thirty pound Gourmet Menu, which changes every month and comprises four courses. There are three glasses of wine included, specially chosen to match each of the three savory courses. The wines come from Santat, that excellent independent wine merchant down the A3 in Guildford.

I was peering in through the window and reading the menu by the front door of this lovely old Georgian house with its attractively variegated brickwork when I noticed the special four course Surprise Menu for 23.00. The worst thing about restaurant menus is having to make up one's mind. I love to be served surprise dishes, so in I went. Well, I tell you - this has to be the gastronomic bargain of the century!

First a charming amuse geule - a little pasta parcel in a coulis delicately flavoured with tomato and a hint of mustard, then the first course: a generous arrangement of three different fish on a bed of flat noodles with little islands of intensely flavoured pesto, topped with some crevettes, nicely arranged in a large, deep dish. There was salmon, brandade of salted cod and halibut.

The main course looked as if it was teal but turned out to be none other than wigeon. Pieces of breast were fanned out around the leg joint and set on jet black wild mushrooms - horns of plenty. Chef Patron Erik Michel's creation was beautifully finished with the best vegetables I've had for quite a while. Baby carrots and mange toutes added colour and texture as well as flavour. But the exceptional taste sensations were patty pan squash which also looks so pretty, and baby turnips that were simply delicious. A vast and beautiful Wedgewood platter ensured that the whole thing was a triumph; this was cooking and presentation of great accomplishment and style.

After that I was brought a plate of lovely English cheeses, with crispy pieces of apple and home made biscuits. The cheeses were in perfect condition and I enjoyed each mouthful. To finish there was nougatine ice cream in a kiwi fruit sauce. The ice cream was chock full of aromatic preserved orange peel, angelica and nuts, topped off with caramelised bread crumbs and brown sugar - a rare treat.

Considering there was a large party the night I visited, we diners on the smaller tables were very well looked after by Karen Michel, ably assisted by two very charming French waiting staff. Perhaps I was lucky that night, or, dining alone, was mistaken for an AA inspector, as horror stories about the service at Michel's abound. There is a good wine list with some very reasonable prices so you can concentrate on the food without having to whack the bill too high. My stunning four course dinner with two very decent glasses of wine came to twenty seven pounds. Money well and enjoyably spent, I thought.

Dine Online Accolade for outstanding cuisine and value.

Michel's, (Now Drake's) The Clock House, High Street, Ripley, Surrey. GU 23 6AQ
Tel: 01483 224777

Directions: From the A3 from central London, take the first exit after crossing the M25. Drake's in on the right shortly after you enter the village of Ripley. I drove back to central London in just under half an hour.

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