The Lygon Arms, Broadway, Worcestershire

Dine Online - Hotel review

Pastime with good companie - sang King Henry VIII, one of whose favourite pastimes was "to goe huntynge", though his quarry, the hart, could equally have meant that of a lady heart just as well as the deer. A good bed for the night after the chase could have been had at The White Hart, as the Lygon was known in Henry's day, since when it has been a great coaching inn for five centuries. It is located in the centre of the main street of Broadway, one of the finest of the Cotswold villages, with its rich stock of ancient and handsome houses as well as some interesting shops.

We spent two gloriously luxurious nights there in mid-January. What a wonderful antidote to the rigours of winter it was, without actually cheating by leaving the country. The combination of log fires burning in vast ancient grates and the hospitality and comfort of the hotel really does warm your heart.

Behind the mellow Cotswold stone of the oldest part of the hotel is a complex of buildings which have been added by successive generations, but always with a sense of heritage. You can stay in the old house in oak beamed and panelled splendour, or you may prefer a room in a more modern part of the hotel. The traffic is heavy in the village street outside the historic facade, but discreetly fitted double glazing keeps out all but the low rumble of the heaviest lorries. The bypass will have opened by spring 1998, so even this minor wrinkle will soon have gone. The modern rooms retain some of the character of the old house by the clever use of traditional drapes and pieces of antique furniture.

We were lucky that the Charles I suite was available, so we slept in the room where that unfortunate King is said to have met with his generals after one of the battles of the English Civil War. There is an impressive fourposter bed (with a very comfortable modern mattress), and a bathroom with real character, unlike the usual boring hotel bathrooms. But best of all is the private sitting room, pictured below left with panelling that conceals the entrances to two secret passages. The fireplace is big enough to roast a whole sheep in. No sooner had we arrived, than a waiter appeared with tea, offering to light the fire. We felt immediately at home (I wish!), and it was hard to prise ourselves out of such deep luxury to go out for dinner at the Churchill Arms, five miles up the road in Paxford.

Continental breakfast is included in the price of your room, but this is no feeble affair. The tables are beautifully set with lovely china and crisp napery. The buffet groans with many kinds of fruit: fresh, preserved and dried. There are the lightest and freshest croissants, toasted breads of various kinds, cereals and mueslis. Those expecting to go hunting, whether literally, or more likely for antiques and historic sights, can pay a bit extra for a traditionally cooked English breakfast with all the trimmings.

Next door to the hotel but forming part of the Lygon complex, is a lovely old building that houses Oliver's Winebar, recently openend and named after Oliver Cromwell, the notorious regicide and republican!

On the second day of our visit, it was so nice to return to the hotel where we made full use of the Country Club facilities in the gap between tea and dinner. Swimming is such a good way to work up an appetite, though it must be said I spent rather a long time in the hot jacuzzi chatting to local Club members about their favourite Cotswold eating places. I avoided the Club's torture chamber - just a quick glimpse of fit looking men rowing nowhere and women jogging on treadmills was enough to put me off. The equipment is seriously high-tech, so I expect I'd only break it if I got too close. Rather more relaxing is the range of special treatments dispensed by a team of resident therapists. After dinner in the Great Hall we repaired to the billiards room, where there are two professional tables. The night porter gave us a little much needed instruction, and we had a hilarious hour of gentle exercise, very good for the digestion!

I must say, I'd love to be sent on a conference at the Lygon one day. The facilities are so good, but I'd probably be daydreaming about the next meal. I noticed some wicked looking plates of canapes and other goodies on their way to one of the meeting rooms.

We found the atmosphere at the Lygon Arms was really comfortable and friendly. It's more like staying in a friend's country house. Dogs and children are welcome, there's no trace of stuffy hauteur, yet the standard of service, comfort and cuisine is as high as almost any grand hotel in the world. This remarkable trick has everything to do with the management style of Kirk Ritchie who has been managing director of the Lygon Arms since 1983. The hotel is his life, but he seems never to have become too familiar, since as we all know, at its worst, familiarity breeds contempt. Over such a long period it would have been all too easy to take things just a bit for granted, not to notice standards slipping. But Mr Ritchie is just as bright-eyed and bushy-tailed as he was fifteen years ago, and so are his staff.
Everyone I spoke to clearly loves working there. You will love staying there, as we did.

The Lygon Arms, Broadway, Worcestershire WR12 7DU
Tel: 01386 852255 Fax: 01386 858611

58 air conditioned rooms, 7 suites. Prices start from Stg 165 per room per night ex VAT.

Special breaks start from Stg 230 per person based on two people sharing. The Midweek in the Cotswolds package includes two nights (Sundays to Thursdays inclusive), a table d'Hote dinner each night, early morning tea with a daily newspaper and continental breakfast.

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