The menu at La Roche is a good example of contemporary style; there are five or six dishes in each of the usual categories. Except for fish. Only two starters and two main fish dishes in a waterfront restaurant seems almost perverse! With the possible exception of Steamed fillet of seabass - filled with sole mousse and served with pan fried peppers and a saffron and a tarragon scented vegetable fondue - none of the fish seemed likely to be local produce. Perhaps Poole Harbour and Lyme Bay are totally fished out, or maybe Maitre Chef Karl Heinz Nagler is not a pescatorial afficionado coming as he does from land locked Mittel Europa.
Anyway, the Salmon Rillette was enriched with curry and coriender, served with continental lettuce and a light citrus cream sauce. (Which variety of continental lettuce we demanded to know? the waiter looked temporarily nonplussed at this attempt to pull his leg a little). Never mind, when it appeared it was a delight to behold and the gently home smoked salmon was as fresh as a daisy. The equally Gently poached ravioli - can one fiercely poach anything, one wondered? - filled with mozzarella and Sundried Tomatoes was also found to be beautifully presented with great attention to detail and generous in portion, served as it was with crispy leeks and balsamic vinaigrette.
The starters all looked interesting, but for the culinary faint hearted, and remember this is an English seaside hotel, there is Refreshing Melon filled with exotic fruit sorbet and a splash of Malibu. Hopefully the faint hearted mostly dine in the Hotel's other restaurant.
The main courses are served in the grand manner, silver domes are whipped off with military precision. If a rapturous aroma assails the nose then this otherwise rather pretentious ceremony is worth putting up with. I am happy to report that the nose was indeed assailed, and very nicely too. The escalope of salmon had plenty of flavour and melted in the mouth. It was roasted, as chefs say these days, and came with a pea puree, topped with julienne and served with bacon brunoise and thyme fondue. The colours were vibrant and flavours were uninhibited but mingled well.
Local produce was evident in the Pan fried Loin of Dorset Lamb which was beautifully cooked and presented on a garlic crouton topped with onion puree floating in a sorrel scented lamb jus. All current culinary buzz words present and correct. But it worked!
Puddings look most attractive: a light and airy pancake came with a deeply coloured chocolate sauce with little white flowers etched into its surface. There was ice cream in a tuille basket and the whole arrangement demanded one's attention. The meal ended with good cafetiere coffee and lovely home made petits fours.
The restaurant is comfortably arranged and decorated, with plenty of space between tables. The service began grandly enough with much pulling out of chairs, shaking of napkins and flourishing of silver domes. The restaurant closes at ten pm, and as the witching hour approached we began to feel that we were beginning to outstay our welcome. The wine waiter was helpful and didn't go off us when we ordered the house wine, a very decent Australian for a very reasonable tenner a bottle.
La Roche is a serious restaurant that appears to be trying hard in all departments. Prices are quite high, the same as a good London restaurant. Restaurant going in the capital is entertainment, some say theatre even, though I think that's going a bit far. At La Roche they could perhaps loosen up a bit. Some customers that would otherwise greatly enjoy a meal there might be a little put off by the "temple of gastronomy" atmosphere that can get in the way of what should be a thoroughly fun evening. All the ingredients are here, you only have to read the menu to see that!
Prices for the A la carte Dinner Menu: Starters Stg 7.50 to Stg 12.50; Mains Stg 16.50 to Stg 18.50; Desserts Stg 8.00; Coffee and petits fours Stg 1.75
by Elizabeth Taylor, as told to Clifford Mould
La Roche
Haven Hotel, Banks Road, Sandbanks, Poole, Dorset
Tel: 01202 707333
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