The UK based Restaurant, Hotel and Wine Review

This restaurant has now been open over a year under the proprietorship of Anthony Armelin.   Anthony has a very particular system which has been I think developed from various sources, including some upmarket franchised outlets.  For example, the outer tables in the large room, (which is housed in what appears to be a converted barn but which is in fact a new building), have no tablecloths but the central tables do, the piped music is middle of the road and upbeat, the winelist is short and relatively inexpensive, and the cooking is surprisingly good. 

There is a large bar area with comfortable seating, and the look is of a slightly contrived, chintzy Berni Inn.   The carpet in particular I would have to describe as eccentric at least.  The cooking and the charm of Gerry, the maitre d', are what make Gilby's worth a visit. 

The fish chef is a refugee from the Padstow empire of Rick Stein, and there is also a meat man.  Between them they produce an excellent lunch special for a quite unbelievable £7.95, and a very balanced carte with an even number of fish and meat dishes.   Starters include hand dived scallops, beautifully fresh and well prepared in a lightly applied sweet soy and ginger sauce; a fine prawn cocktail (for which I am a complete sucker) served elegantly with an excellent home made Marie Rose; a spinach risotto, cooked al dente. 

Mains can be calf's liver with super gravy, cumberland sausages, onion gravy and mash, wonderful Vin Sullivan or Ashton's dover soles, seabass baked with fennel, and a personal favourite, poached smoked haddock on a bed of spinach with a poached egg. 

Puddings are relatively basic, but enjoyable, in particular a sticky toffee pudding with the addition of home made vanilla ice cream on request.  Service is provided by willing, charming but largely unprofessional young staff, orchestrated by the highly efficient and professional Gerry.  The wine list is as I said short, but there is a decent Rioja Reserva, and a couple of good whites. If you're in the area, do go and the food at least will not disappoint.

Adrian Biles March 1999

Please send your comments to us at: Dine-Online But please note: Dine Online is an independent review magazine - we have no connection with hotels and restaurants we review, nor are we a reservation service!

Back to Dine Online Home Page

Dine Online Copyright by Clifton Media Associates, London UK June 1999, All rights reserved.

Views or opinions expressed by authors are not necessarily those of the publishers, Clifton Media Associates. While every care is taken in compiling this publication, the publishers cannot assume responsibility for any effects arising therefrom.