Dukes Hotel Restaurant Review

Dukes Hotel Restaurant
Dukes Hotel
35 St. James’s Place
London SW1
Tel: 0871 971 7642

Even when you think you’re a Londoner through and through, like I am, it is still possible to be taken by surprise. Dukes Hotel is so tucked away in a quiet courtyard it would be possible to never know it was there. Quintessentially English in its style and character it is the perfect place to hunker down and spend a few hours in its delightful bygone atmosphere. Situated in an area of town full of heritage its elegant building looks particularly attractive at the moment, bedecked for the festive season with plenty of holly and ivy, Christmas trees, lighting and decorations. On the raised ground floor there is a sophisticated and cosy bar which is famous for its dry martini’s – legend has it this is where Ian Fleming took inspiration for James Bond’s favourite tipple. There is also a comfortable lounge area where it is possible to take tea served in a very traditional manner.

The hotel’s restaurant is at ground level with seating for about forty diners. Numerous prints cover the walls and tables are well-spaced, apricot coloured seating is almost arm-chair in its comfort, and, although perhaps not the most atmospheric room I have ever eaten in, it was still a very pleasant dining experience. Service was spot on without being intrusive.

My starter, a feather-light soufflé with well-flavoured haddock had a wonderful buttery sauce flecked with chives and proved first rate. With this I was offered a choice of several breads and butters which added a nice touch. My guest began with some seared scallops which he said were cooked perfectly, tender, with a good flavour. To follow, he chose venison, which seemed very suitable for the season and the freezing temperatures outside. He commented how much he enjoyed its hearty and rich flavours on the plate. With this we drank a full-bodied red wine, Carmenere Armador Odfjeld Maipo 2009 £28.00, which proved an interesting mix of spice, black fruits and liquorice on the palate. For my main course I had a plate of slow cooked beef with horseradish mash. A perfect plate of winter comfort food, it came very well presented with excellent gravy, beetroot and a side order of buttery spinach. To finish, we shared a moist and fruity bread and butter pudding, accompanied with vanilla ice-cream, it was first rate in every way.

Dukes Hotel offers a reassuring slice of traditional England that can be hard to find in today’s chaotic and cosmopolitan London, and one that I find extremely alluring.

Louise Elgin. December 2010.
A meal for two with wine and water is around £100.00
A three course festive fixed price menu is £30.00 per head.

Dukes Hotel Restaurant
Dukes Hotel
35 St. James’s Place
London SW1
Tel: 0871 971 7642

http://www.campbellgrayhotels.com/dukes-london/introduction.html