Eventually you round a bend and there is the substantial, imposing Victorian/Edwardian house, built in 1874 as a family residence and enlarged at the turn of the century. An unusual and attractive private chapel forms part of the house and carols are sung here on Christmas Eve and weddings celebrated throughout the year.
The feeling of a private house grows on you as go through the solid front door into the outer hall, full of green wellies of all sizes, fishing rods, walking sticks, deerstalker hats and all the paraphanalia of country living. Through another door and you are in the splendid main hall, which is just what a hall should be in such a house. Panelled walls; arm chairs and sofas round a huge blazing log fire, with a club fender; game books and fishing registers and photograph albums of shooting and fishing parties, in snow and sunshine, on a large drum table. The only indication of any "Reception Area" is an oak table at one side with a little brass bell. Ring it and welcoming help quickly arrives either from Ailsa or David Assenti, the owners, or from their enthusiastic staff.
The bedrooms are enormous and many of them have their own sitting room and, in some cases, even their own front hall. Bathrooms are also vast and the splendid Edwardian fittings have been preserved. Bath towels and robes and bathroom accessories are of a high standard. There are fine views of the gardens and of the policies, as they say in Scotland, with some of the fattest rabbits I have seen heavily populating the lawns. These bedroom suites are very comfortable indeed and are agreeably furnished with arm chairs and writing desks and television sets. Everywhere, throughout the house, are delightful ornaments and pictures, which reinforce the feeling of a private home.
As well as the main hall, there are six other public rooms, including an attractive and elegant library, which can also be used as a private dining room, and a large conservatory, where breakfast is normally served.
The main dining room is filled with fresh flowers and there is fine porcelain and good glass set on spotless linen tablecloths. Standards everywhere would be hard to beat.
Cromlix has long been known for its good and interesting food and Craig Wilson, the young and enthusiastic chef in charge, continues the tradition. He aims to prepare international dishes but with a Scottish flavour where appropriate. There used to be no menu. You would be told what was to be offered and if anything did not suit, then a something would be specially prepared - again, as in a private house. There is a menu now, but with a choice of just two dishes per course. This is a good system if one has faith in the chef. He can concentrate on just a few carefully chosen dishes.
The first course might be sautéed baby scallops, beautifully tender and lightly cooked, layered with filo pastry wafers in a pimento and herb cream sauce. Or hot cheese and potato terrine with salad leaves and a citrus grape dressing. Then home made soup or a sorbet (apricot and elderflower, for instance). Main courses might be breast of duck, glazed with brown sugar, on a juniper berry and marsala reduction; or grilled turbot or sea bass with a crayfish bisque and fried vegetables. Craig Wilson knows how to cook the beautifully fresh fish that he gets from the Scottish ports. Desserts might include an iced terrine of white and dark chocolate purée or a warm lemon tart over a raspberry and lime coulis. A good selection of Scottish cheeses is also offered. The price of dinner is 36.00.
I have had the pleasure of eating at Cromlix on many occasions over the years and I have never been disappointed.
The wine list is sensibly divided into four sections: house wines; the main list; bin-ends and limited supplies; half bottles. The house recommended wines run from 12.00 to 31.00 and there is a fine selection of wines from all regions, including, for instance the Ch. Leoville-Las Cases '85 and Ch. Lafite Rothschild '85 for great occasions. House Champagne is resonably priced at 26.00.
There is plenty to do around Cromlix. Shooting and fishing are available by arrangement and sometimes shooting parties or even just a group of friends can take over the whole house. There are 3 lochs on the estate and miles of walks. Golfers van visit 10 courses within a few miles and Scone Palace, Hopetoun House, Stirling Castle and Glenturret distllery are not far away. Cromlix makes an excellent base for exploring the Southern Highlands.
Cromlix House, Kinbuck, By Dunblane, Perthshire FK15 9JT. Tel 01786 822125 Fax 01786 825450. Twin or double rooms from 135 per room including full breakfast. Suites from 175. Special rates for stays of 3 nights or more.
Michael Pelham is proprietor of Pelham Tours, specialising in gastronomic,
sporting and other tours in the UK and elsewhere.
Pelham Tours. Old Way
House. Beaulieu, Hampshire SO42 7YL. Tel 01590 612264. Fax 01590 612747.
Email peltours@interalpha.co.uk
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