Truc Vert - A touch
of inner-city sophistication
Reviewed by Jacklyn Swiecicki
Having eaten at Truc Vert before,
I knew well in advance that I was
in store for a gastronomic treat.
Immediately upon entry it was clear
that the service was set to be
impeccable. Our host for the evening,
Jeff, escorted us to our seats
taking us through the soft candlelit
restaurant to our table which was
beautifully presented, and quite
formal. Despite the fact that Truc
Vert has a renowned reputation
of being a rustic delicatessen-style
eatery by day, the evening ambiance
is somewhat more refined and delightful
- with all the expectations of
fine dining being met, without
being too stuffy or pretentious.
Whilst perusing the faultless
menu, Jeff recommended we try
an aperitif of champagne with
a dash of blackberry liqueur.
A fine recommendation, as this
was a flirty and sophisticated
start to our evening. For our
entree my companion and I shared
some grilled Tiger prawns accompanied
alongside grilled vegetables
and couscous (£9.95). The
prawns were fabulous. Still firm
and succulent. Meanwhile the
grilled vegetables were cooked
to enhance their own natural
flavours, such as the smokiness
of the peppers and the light
freshness of the courgettes.
Whilst nibbling on some thin
slices of homemade bread and
butter, Jeff suggested we try
a New Zealand wine to accompany
our main dishes of South African
ostrich steak for me (£16.50),
and grilled tuna steak and risotto
for my friend (£16.95).
My ostrich steak came with tender
and textured braised red cabbage,
soft ripe figs, all highlighted
by a sweet cherry jus with a
crumbling of blue cheese. Although,
it may seem that there was a
lot going on on my plate, this
dish was carefully thought out,
and everything just worked amazingly
together, in just the right portions.
Despite the ostrich steak being
pink and cooked lightly, the
meat itself seemed a tad tough,
however this was in no way an
insult to the chef. My companions
tuna steak was, as always, nicely
grilled and full of flavour.
The risotto was grainy and superbly
flavoured thanks to the salty
feta cheese. Our 2006
Clayridge bottle of wine matched
our meals
perfectly (£30). Light
enough for my guests tuna steak,
yet meaty enough for my ostrich.
Despite us lingering over all
of our savoury dishes, dessert
was a non-negotiable must. The
lemon meringue tart (£4.95)
was tangy and light with the
meringue maintaining a firm,
yet soft texture. However the
sauce in which it was served,
was slightly too sweet and in
my opinion unnecessary. Our gluttony
didn't end there. We also indulged
in a warm chocolate pudding served
with vanilla ice cream (£4.95).
Divine gooey chocolate flowed
out of the pudding when the soft
crust was lightly tapped. The
choice of dark chocolate was
perfection, without being sickly
sweet. This dessert was bliss,
and words cannot describe how
luxurious the whole process was.
You must experience it for yourselves.
The menu at Truc Vert changes
daily, therefore it is priceless
to have a host such as Jeff,
who can cater to your tastes
with his knowledge of seasonal
dishes and wines. Don't be
afraid to ask, when help this
good is
on hand, it should be utilised
to achieve the ultimate culinary
experience.
Truc Vert is a special place.
Not only is the food immaculate,
the whole experience is truly
memorable. Whether you drop
by for a tasty rustic lunch,
or
reserve a table for an evening
meal, Truc Vert is definitely
a restaurant that will tempt
your return and indulge all
of your senses.
Truc
Vert
42 North Audley Street
London
W1K 6ZR
020 7491 9988
Jacklyn Swiecicki