The Only Running
Footman - Restaurant Review by
Louise Elgin
The
Only Running Footman
5 Charles Street
London W1
Tel: 020 7499 2988
Tucked just behind Berkeley Square
is The Only Running Footman, a
newly refurbished establishment
with a very inviting character.
Having ascended the stairs from
the bustling pub below, one is
met by delightful and elegant décor
with a timeless, understated ambience.
The walls are lined with historical
portraits and cartoons, and there
are comfy velvet chairs, slatted
blinds and a cosy fire-place. The
room is small but the tables are
well spaced - the service is personal
and relaxed and there is a feeling
of dining in a private and exclusive
club. The kitchen is overseen by
chef Jeremy Hollingsworth whose
previous experience includes six
years working in Marco Pierre White
restaurants, where he helped win
a coverted Michelin star for Quo
Vadis. As I had previously dined
so spectacularly at The Bull in
Highgate (owned by the same award-winning
group), I had high expectations.
The menu has plenty to entice
and I was very happy to read on
the front in big proud writing
that all the meat is reared in
farms that have been approved by
the Footman. Starters included
tagliatelle of langoustine; foie
gras; and snails. I began with
a risotto of braised celery, baby
beetroot and parmesan. It was a
lush red in colour, creamy, and
full of tangy flavour. It was totally
moreish and, although filling,
left me wanting more. The Scottish
hand-dived scallops were juicy,
light and succulent, and came served
with a fine contrasting piquant
tomato sauce.
To follow, there were six main
courses and two specials of the
day. We almost had to flip a coin
as there were so many avenues of
temptation to choose between: Gloucester
Old Spot slow roast pork with potato
and apple galette; pan-fried Welsh
black beef fillet with foie gras;
and roasted monkfish served with
a bisque sauce. I tried the Suffolk
free-range chicken, served with
mash, hazelnuts and a chive dressing.
It was a generous helping, with
a delicate nutty taste accompanied
by a wonderfully creamy mushroom
sauce. The loin of venison was
both tender and succulent with
a rich flavour, proving to be a
fine companion to the peppery and
smoky Argentine Malbec we were
quaffing - (£25 a bottle).
The wine list has been helpfully
split into various sections, such
as ‘Juicy & Spicy’ and ‘Light
to Medium Bodied’.
For pudding, there were six choices,
including white chocolate and hazelnut
parfait with passion fruit coulis,
and apple tatin with cinnamon ice
cream. We tried the bread and butter
pudding with vanilla ice cream,
which was all it should be: moist,
creamy, and filling, total comfort
food to fortify against the cold
and dark winter’s night outside.
Apparently The Only Running Footman
has two personas - busy and bustling
at lunchtime, calm and dignified
at dinner. Whenever you choose,
I very much doubt you will be disappointed.
Louise Elgin. January 2008.
A meal for two with wine and water
is about £90.00
