Pembrokes Restaurant

This hotel diner on Richmond Hill offers 
a good Modern British Menu

Pembrokes is located in the Richmond Hill Hotel, which rambles behind a terrace of most attractive Georgian houses. The restaurant has just been refurbished, probably a hard task given its Grade 2 listed status. The result is mildly contemporary so as not to frighten the horses, i.e. the planning committee. The chairs are comfortable and the tables are a decent size and not too close together.

Chef Mickey Athwain's menu is well planned with six or seven dishes in each category and the style is unfussily Modern British with European influences. I enjoyed a rich pumpkin and Amaretto soup, with a smooth velvety texture, though some might find it a little sweet. The tiger shrimp cocktail featured plenty of succulent crustacea and a modest amount of shredded lettuce (that's the way round we like it!). My guest found the whole prawn decorating the top rather a trial, but he is a fastidious soul and probably should have requested a finger bowl. The carpaccio of beetroot topped with slices of honey glazed duck was a generous and well flavoured portion. Our starters were priced between £4.95 and £6.95

Our main course dishes included very good calves liver and pancetta (£16.00) served with creamed chicory - a nice touch that adds a slightly bitter bite. Tender pork fillet (£16.95) was perhaps a little bland, but derived some extra kick from some red cabbage confit and a cider sauce. The braised lamb shank (£19.50) was practically a leg of lamb and had been slow cooked so that the meat was juicily falling off the bone. It came with white beans and generous shavings of truffle and some ultra smooth garlic mash that someone had really put their back into. 

Puddings were a bit mixed - the apple crumble  was done as an individual round not served from a tray bake - consequently it lacked caramelisation and the crumble topping hadn't quite browned off. Home made marshmallow ice cream and chocolate sauce was nice, as was an autumnal trifle which had a really delicious layer of custard.

The wine list is very decent and realistically priced with a good selection by the glass. Service was extremely professional and friendly and the atmosphere is informal and unstuffy. Surprisingly, in spite of its smart image and a plethora of wealthy residents, there are very few decent European style restaurants in Richmond, so Pembrokes is a useful addition to the local dining scene.  

Pembrokes, Richmond Hill Hotel, Richmond-upon-Thames TW10 6RW

Open for casual dining 9.30 - 9.00pm daily
Lunch 12.30pm - 2pm daily
Dinner 7.00pm - 9.30pm daily

Reservations: 020 8939 0265  www.pembrokesrestaurant.com

Clifford Mould October 2006