Morgan M - A French
Restaurant That is Great For Vegetarians
Morgan M
489 Liverpool Street
Islington
London N7 8NS
020 7609 3560
Let me say straight off: I recommend
Morgan M for a special meal out,
especially for foodies and more
especially for vegetarians. As
a veggie myself (no meat or fish),
it was a rare treat to be offered
a six course ‘from the garden’ vegetarian
menu at a bone fide classy restaurant.
Created by patron chef Morgan Meunier
who has a Michelin star from a
previous stint at Monsieur Max
in Twickenham, his menu is startling
given that he is French and the
menu is ostensibly French cuisine.
Vegetarians, like me who have spent
time in France, will know that
you are more likely to stumble
across a flying saucer there than
a proper vegetarian menu.
The restaurant, a 5 minute walk
from Highbury and Islington tube
in North London, serves a three
course fish or meat menu (£39)
but the six course taster menus
(the ‘spring’ meat/fish
menu (£48) and the ‘Garden’ veggie
version (£43)) are the business.
Both menus start with a Chilled
Cream of Broad Bean with Horseradish
Foam which both myself and my guest
(who had the ‘spring’menu)
thought was sublime. Like a subtle
broad bean puree/soup, the white
horseradish, distinctive but not
overwhelming, gave that little
kick and blended perfectly with
the broad bean. We opted
for the wine by the glass accompanying
each course (£29.50) and
the Le Lesc Colombard Ugni Blanc
2008, Nin du Gers from South West
France, not only complemented the
dish but was admirably light yet
with a lingering aftertaste. Meanwhile
we were offered a choice of fresh
soda, multigrain and French baguette
breads.
Second course for my guest was
a choice of tuna or foie gras and
she went for the Ballotine of Foie
Gras , Petite Salade and Toasted
Brioche. She commented that the
foie gras was rich tasting and
was intrigued by the apricot chutney
with curry sorbet and the orange
sauce also on her plate. Perhaps
one taste too many. I had a Ragout
of Tarbais Beans, Tomatoes and
Basil, Turned Courgette, Saffron
sauce ‘Embeurre’. Tarbais
are a kind of haricot bean and
this dish was uneventful. The wine
was a Verdicchio de Matelica, 2008,
Colle stefana, an Italian wine.
Third course was the best for
both of us. My guest had a Seared
Fillet of John Dory, Braised Cuttlefish,
with vegetables and sauce. She
loved this and she knows her fish,
and was also impressed by the chablis,
2007, Gerard Temblay, a Burgundy
Chardonnay with a fresh citrus
taste. I had a Steamed Gnocchi,
Asparagus Cream, with Summer Truffle,
Girolles Cappucino. This was divine.
I’m not normally prone to
gnocchi but this, clichés
aside, melted in the mouth and
the asparagus cream and truffle
were spot on. Ironically it is
an Italian dish, and the gentleman
on the adjacent table to us, an
Italian, confirmed it was top drawer.
Fourth course, the main course
as such, was for me a Roasted Red
Pepper stuffed with Pinenuts and
Ricotta with a Jerusalem Artichoke
Soubise. The pepper was cooked
soft and maybe because I am not
a fan of ricotta, I felt this course
was less successful than the others.
My guest picked a Farmed Chalian
Duck dish in the artichoke soubise
rather than the Ragout of French
Rabbit she could have alternatively
chosen. She had no complaints but
felt it was less sophisticated
perhaps than the other dishes.
The wine was red, an Ocho Gran
Reserva 1998, an excellent soft
Spanish Navarra wine.
On to the puddings. First a pre-desert
light vanilla rice pudding with
an orange tuille. Small but delicious.
Elegant, cool (as in temperature),
with just that snippet of sharpness,
this would have been a satisfactory
conclusion to the evening. But
a choice of a dark chocolate Moelleux
with a Milk Sorbet or a Raspberry
Souffle with Lemon Ice Cream and
a Red Fruit Coulis awaited us,
so we tried one each and shared
away. The chocolate, a house speciality,
was a tour de force with the first
spoonful releasing the flowing
stream of chocolate inside. The
raspbery souffle did less for me,
being a touch hot inside, but the
lady with the Italian diner nearby
said it was the best souffle she
had ever had in her life! That
couple were on a special night
out and like us felt they were
given just the right level of attention
by the French waiting staff. Morgan
Meunier, himself, as is his wont,
came to chat to most diners. He
explained that he wanted his restaurant
to be a carefully planned experience
for his customers: everything from
the toilets (which were smart and
clean) to the décor (burgundy
walls and plush green chairs) to
the paintings on the walls (some
by Morgan himself). I was impressed
by the crockery and cutlery, particularly
the plates and bowls which were
individually shaped and designed
for each course and were almost
themselves works of arts.
If you can afford it, and if one
or both of you are vegetarian,
I would visit Morgan M soon. From
June 16th to July 26th, the restaurant
is offering two people a six course
menu each with a bottle of wine
(the Le Lesc colombard) for £100
all in (plus an optional 12.5%
service charge). Diners must quote ‘summer
festival’ when booking. Go
for it. I don’t think you
will be disappointed.
Rustom Irani June 2009
