Le Bouchon Bordalaise Restaurant Review | A traditional French brasserie in London

Le Bouchon Bordalaise
3-5 Battersea Rise
London SW11
Tel: 020 7738 0307

Le Bouchon Bordalaise is situated in the heart of an area of London known as Nappy Valley. When I visited recently it was full of well behaved families having a relaxed and civilised Sunday lunch. What a pleasure it was to sit in such a calm, yet convivial atmosphere full of gallic bon amis. Moreover at the weekend it is open from midday till 11pm which is perfect as you can eat at a time that suits you. The restaurant has recently celebrated its twenty year anniversary and to mark that fact has had a refurbishment so hence its smart and attractive new interior. The kitchen is still run by Eric Landeau; Eric having held the position of Head Chef at Le Gavroche, before his move south across the capital (with the blessing of Michel Roux Junior). So it’s reasonable to expect top notch cooking.

The menu is like stepping straight across the channel and into a traditional French brasserie. There are many of the old favourites, from soupe a l’oignon to pan fried foie gras with apple compote. I began with a casserole of frogs legs and snails, these came in a wonderful creamy mushroom and white wine sauce which were totally heavenly. The rich flavours mingling with a touch of lemon which added a zing of freshness. Sautéed scallops served in puff pastry were plentiful, with a light pasty and cream sauce.

The main courses are split into several sections with fish, meat and a whole section devoted to prime Aberdeen Angus grills so there should be something to suit most palates. There is even a vegetarian selection which I think is rather an alien concept to our gallic neighbours. I had a really tasty coq au vin, the infused bacon permeating through the tender meat, giving it depth of flavour. We were drinking a full bodied peppery nosed red, Vacqueyvas La Grayeliere Domaine, which at £30 a bottle seemed reasonably priced and was just right for the grim winter’s day outside. Sautéed veal kidneys came served with a grain mustard, white wine and cream sauce and tagliatelle, my guest’s only gripe being perhaps the kidneys could have done with just a touch more cooking.

The short dessert list includes favourites such as crème brulee and profiterolles. There is also a very well priced set menu available every day except Sundays, which at £15.00 is a bit of a bargain for three courses and includes two of my favourites, snails baked in garlic and parsley butter and moules a la crème or mariniere.

Louise Elgin.

A meal for two with wine and water is around £95.00.
Set menu £15 for three courses available Monday - Saturday.