L’Oranger,
The French restaurant in Mayfair
Louise Elgin marvels at the work
of Head Chef Laurent Michel
L’Oranger
5 St. James’s Street
London SW1
Tel: 020 7839 3774
Being
a born and bred Londoner I thought
I knew most of the hidden
secrets that the capital has to
offer. However, I found myself
dining al fresco in an exquisite
Georgian square that I never knew
existed. L’Oranger is a French
restaurant in Mayfair with a very
welcoming and relaxed atmosphere.
It is decorated with warm colours
and soft furnishings and exudes
an ambience of effortless elegance.
There is a conservatory aspect
flooding the room with natural
light, whilst modern art on the
walls adds a contemporary twist.
On a sunny day it is possible to
dine outside, as I did, in adjoining
Pickering Place, a beautiful, flower
filled, Georgian Square. Here lies
a fascinating history as the square
was once the scene of many an 18th
century duel and other dubious
sporting activities such as dog-fighting
and bearbaiting.
To mark the start
of summer, Head Chef Laurent Michel
(who has
worked in several Michelin-starred
restaurants all over France,
before taking over at L‘Oranger
in 2004) has gone back to his
roots to produce a new menu full
of Mediterranean flavours
One of the highlights was some
wonderfully tender scallops, cooked
in the oven in their own shell,
which had been sealed with puff
pasty, served with steamed leeks
and truffles and a Jurancon sauce.
The presentation was stunning and
innovative, with the scallops served
on a black slate slab with straw
around the dish as if emerging
from a birds nest. Another highlight
were light as a feather corn blinis
with a creamy poached egg and plenty
of smoked salmon, soured cream
and caviar. My guest’s roasted
rack of veal came with a beautifully
flavoured summer truffle sauce
and a tian of tomato and aubergines
which he commented was beautifully
tender. I also tried a skewer filled
to the brim with succulent pieces
of Monkfish and grilled Mediterranean
vegetables which came with a sauce ‘vierge’ plenty
of olive oil, lemon juice, tomatoes
and basil).
Throughout the afternoon’s
festivities I was privileged to
drink some marvellous wines (yes,
I know, it’s a tough job
and I drew the short straw!) Refreshing
Rose Duval Leroy Champagne. Deep
and lush Laurent Tribut Chablis
Premier Cru 2005. Plummy and intense
Chateau Tour des Genets 2005. I
finished with an outstanding dessert
wine - Comte Phillippe de Nazelle
2004 Cabidos grape ‘Petite
Mansey’ doux which accompanied
my artistically designed pudding,
a plate of crunchy lemon macaroons
with Granny Smith apple and basil
sorbet with accompanying raspberry
jus.
L’Oranger is somewhere to
go when you feel like spoiling
yourself. You can guarantee you
are going to feel cosseted and
looked after in the way only the
French know how. And if your lucky
enough to visit on a sunny day,
make sure you ask to sit outside
in their exquisite, exclusive,
private square and soak up a little
of the historical atmosphere at
the same time.
Lunch Menu - £28 for two
courses, £34 for three.
Louise Elgin. June 2008
