Fifth Floor Restaurant,
Harvey Nichols - Restaurant Review
Fifth
Floor Restaurant
Harvey Nichols
London SW1
Tel: 020 7235 5250
With
summer (hopefully!) on its way,
who wants or needs heavy meals?
With this in mind I dined at the
ultimate ladies who lunch destination:
the Fifth Floor Restaurant
at Harvey Nichols, Knightsbridge. Throughout
the month of June, (and alongside
their a la carte menu), they have
launched a Swedish Summer
Market menu that has been created by their
Executive Chef Jonas Karlsson.
Using produce straight from the
adjoining food market, it reflects
the chef’s Swedish heritage
whilst incorporating some of his
favourite ingredients.
The top floor oval restaurant is
reached by an express lift from
street level, just inside the store.
The dining-room is full of natural
light with a very modern, almost
space-age feel. This includes a
curved pistachio coloured tiled
glass ceiling and clever funky
tubular light strips that give
the appearance of patterned wallpaper.
Tables are well spaced, with comfy
cream coloured chairs, crisp white
linen tablecloths, and the centrepiece
of the room being dominated by
a stunning, gigantic vase of lilies.
The view is over the most expensive
property development in London
so you feel you have definitely
arrived. However, if your not convinced
you are somewhere fashionable and
luxurious then surely the appearance
of the swish and stylish champagne
trolley must help. We kicked off
proceedings with a Scandinavian
Bellini - a wonderful mixture of
apricot, mango, lemon juice and
of course, champagne which was
like a taste of summer in a glass
and totally refreshing, whetting
our appetites as we studied the
menu.
There was a selection of three
choices for each course - all with
a Scandinavian theme. I began with
a plate of cured gravid beef served
with a sweet mustard and chive
dressing. The beef was so tender
- it was like cutting through soft
butter, the dressing mixing beautifully
with the sensitive flavours on
the palate. My guest chose a trio
of pickled herrings which were
done in three different ways; mustard
and white wine; marinated with
vinegar; and marinated with tomato.
These were accompanied with an
Absolut vodka cubed jelly dressing
which produced a plate full of
intense and punchy flavours with
every explosive bite.
By now it was becoming apparent
to me why you never see an overweight
Scandinavian. After all, if they
are eating food like this the whole
time no wonder the women are so
attractive (and by God, I hate
them for it!) and the men look
like Greek Gods!
Back to more pressing matters in
hand. My main course was a selection
of sautéed diced vegetables
served with a fried egg topping
and a side order of pickled beetroot.
It was so light and healthy and
perfect for the stylish lady who
doesn’t dare to put on an
ounce, (not me!). My guest had
a very appetising pan-fried plaice
served with bacon lardons, button
mushrooms, parsley and Jersey royal
new potatoes. With this we shared
some crunchy green beans with a
toasted almond topping and some
leaf spinach. He said it was a
splendid combination of tastes
and textures which went perfectly
with his chilled glass of Premier
Cru French Chablis (Van Ligneau
Geoffroy) selected from the extensive
wine by the glass selection. This
he commented held its own without
overpowering the flavours on the
palate.
For pud, I had a rice pudding pleasingly
served in a cocktail glass with
a sliced strawberry topping with
a ball of vanilla ice-cream. It
was a wonderful melange of tastes,
the three blending as one creamily
together. My guest chose a tempting
sounding gateau of frozen Dime
bar and almonds which he commented
was cool, and delightful. He said
he had the feeling of being well-fed
without being overloaded.
The Fifth Floor Restaurant was
very busy on the day we visited
and I can see why with its combination
of a stylish atmosphere and attentive,
professional service. Then, after
you’ve eaten some of the
totally light but exquisite cooking,
you have the perfect excuse to
hit the store beneath for some
serious shopping, without the worry
of an expanded waistline.
Louise
Elgin. June 2008
Swedish Summer Market Menu is available
throughout June
Two courses £19.50
Three courses £24.50
Scandinavian Bellinis £12.95
