Harrisons’
Harrisons’
15-19 Bedford Hill
London SW12
Tel 020 8675 6900
In South London we have an abundance
of great curry houses, but should
you fancy a change you will find
Harrisons’ modern European
restaurant. Situated at the Balham
High Road end of Bedford Hill,
it has a retro 1970’s décor
with warm oranges and muted browns.
Large lampshades hang from the
ceiling giving a soft glow to
the room. Background music was
far from intrusive and the happy
hum coming from the bar contributed
to a relaxed and convivial atmosphere.
Declining the offer of a cocktail,
of which there was many a tempting
choice, we perused the menu. As
one would expect with Rick Stein
as a backer there were many fishy
treats including salt-cod croquettes.
However, we began with a cream
of mushroom soup and a goat’s
curd served on toast. The soup
was earthy and velvety with a lovely
savoury end note. Whilst the goat’s
curd, superbly accompanied by the
shallot jam was simple but very
effective. To drink we enjoyed
a South African unoaked Chardonnay
Diethersdal Durbanville as recommended
and seemed a relative snip at £23.50
a bottle. The service was excellent
and friendly - our waitress being
from New York - Americans knowing
how to provide good service and
it showed.
To follow we tried a roast Cornish
cod, mash, mussels and green sauce.
The fish flaked beautifully and
the mussels made a perfect accompliment.
A side order of tomato and shallot
salad added a nice foil to the
richness on the palate. A slow
roast belly of pork with carrot
and swede puree was well presented.
The pork being sweet and bursting
with flavour, although the crackling
whilst tasty, was slightly on the
chewy side. A good selection of
vegetables came cooked to perfection
with just enough gravy to ensure
the dish wasn’t dry. Meanwhile
the cheeseburger, house chutney
and fries noticed on another table
looked to be perfect for keeping
hungry teenagers happy.
It was with further anticipation
that we perused the puddings and
settled on a rhubarb and almond
tart with honey anglaise and an
iced mango parfait served with
coconut and lime compote. Unfortunately,
the mango parfait has plainly proved
too popular so a second choice
was required. The steamed chocolate
pudding came highly recommended
by the waiter so I decided to go
for it! It was a magnificent concoction,
consisting of a light, very chocolaty
sponge served with ice cream or
clotted cream. Clotted cream would
probably have proved a step too
far down the slippery slope of
a calorific overload so I settled
for the ice cream option - a truly
wonderful pudding. Meanwhile the
rhubarb and almond tart whilst
sweet had a hint of sharpness from
the rhubarb that left one with
the feeling that this was the perfect
dish to finish.
Evie Summers. May 2009.
A three course meal with wine
comes to around £85.00 for
two.
Set menus - £14.00 for two
courses & £17.00 for
three.
