However, not only is the food of an excellent and mouthwatering standard, but the building itself is a mass of romantic crooked stairwells, low beams, secret passageways and tales of ghosts from almost every century. The original part of the grade II listed property was called The Haunt, dating back to the reign of Elizabeth I. For a time the house became known as Little Hammonds, a name that Stuart Hammond just had to revive. And it's not just the ghosts who get up to tricks, the chef performs magic both in and out of the kitchen.
Stuart, a keen and capable magician often appears front of house to demonstrate a few magic tricks while his team of ten chefs continues the good work behind the scenes. Other less expected appearances are occasionally put in by the ghosts of past tenents and employees, even to the extent of provoking an appearance on Esther Rantzen's TV show.
A lively modern menu contrasts with the building, juxtaposing the best of contemporary cuisine with the historical atmosphere of the place. Home made bread was offered and then offered again, not just the once as sometimes disappointingly happens in some establishments. Our first courses were a delicious Deep fried Camembert accompanied by a tangy damson sauce made from fruit from Stuart's mum's garden, and a Pork Vol au Vent filled with the tenderest meat imaginable. Other starters that sounded equally tempting included Raviolis of Chicken filled with a mousse of chicken and mushrooms fried in butter, and Ballotine of wild duck with pistachios.
For the main course I was tempted by the Beggar Hill Swordfish served with a roast pepper and aubergine paté. I finally chose the Willow Green Chicken Langoustine which arrived with a rather haughty looking Langoustine proudly guarding his charge. The chicken was delicate and tasty, cooked in a pink peppercorn sauce. It is quite a sweet dish that shows chicken in a more unusual and exciting light. My partner sampled the Belvoir Pork served with a leek tartlet and wild mushroom sauce. This was a very hearty winter dish - comfort food guaranteed to see you through the wettest and coldest day you could imagine. But the Spinach and Blue Cheese Pie made from blue cheese, eggs, sauteed onions and spinach and set on a pear and tomato base should tickle the most discerning of vegetarian palates.
The wine list extends over several pages and covers France, Italy, Spain, South Africa and the New World. We chose the award winning Hawkes Bay Cabernet Merlot Delegates 1994 which lived up to its reputation. Prices on average started around 15.00 and upwards.
Many restaurants put little effort into their dessert menu, leaving it as an afterthought for those on the greedy side. However, I believe a restaurant which shows creativity and care over its puddings truly cares about food and Little Hammonds lives up to that standard. Dessert was (as it should be) a truly sticky affair in the best possible taste, with chocolate Mille Feuilles served with orange cream and a Bailey's Irish Cream Cheesecake. Both were just enough to be a perfect footnote to the meal, but were presented in such a fashion to give the impression that you were really being pampered. Other desserts included Iced Rhubarb Parfait and Mincemeat Apricot Jalousie.
Finally, coffee and petits fours were served with the same quiet, attentive unobtrusiveness that had had characterised the whole experience. We found our evening out at Little Hammonds to be quite a treat. From the first mouthful to the last sip of coffee, you realise that everything is done with the utmost care and using the best possible ingredients.
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