Fujiyama Japanese
Sushi and Noodle Bar, Brixton
Fujiyama Japanese Sushi and Noodle
Bar
5-7 Vining Street, Brixton,
London
SW9 8QA
020 7737 6583
Japanese eateries seem to come
mainly in two extremes. There are
very expensive, upmarket restaurants
like Nobu, or there are noodle
bars with bench seating more reminiscent
of a college canteen. Fujiyama,
located just off Railton Road in
Brixton is basically a noodle bar,
but somehow it's very much more
than just that. For a start the
menu is all-encompassing ranging
from noodles and ramen to Bento
boxes, with sushi, yakitori, teriyaki
- you name it. Indeed, there's
so much choice that I always begin
to be a little suspicious, but
a glance at the perfectly fresh
seafood and other ingredients in
the refrigerated counter display
quickly put a stop to any further
speculation on my part.
The only thing that really made
me grimace was the wine list, something
that I won't elaborate upon as
I was informed that a totally new
one was on its way shortly. Actually
it's quite difficult to match Western-style
wine with Japanese food: you're
probably better off with sake,
the Japanese rice wine. But we
like drinking European style wines
with our food, so what are the
best wines to match such Oriental
food? I think the difficulty lies
in the number of small dishes that
you're presented with. You may
find a wine that you like that
goes with the sushi but then the
next mouthful is something quite
different so you need a general
purpose white and general purpose
red to take you happily through
the succession of little dishes.
I don't think the wine of choice
needs to be anything too overpowering
because much Japanese food is quite
subtle in flavour. Gewurztraminer
from Alsace is often recommended
but I find it too assertive (if
it's any good!) and would prefer
a lighter Pinot Blanc. A Sauvignon
Blanc, preferably low key, perhaps
from South Africa rather than the
more powerful New Zealand variety
would go down well; or what about
a nice Viognier from the Vin de
Pays d’Oc? Or a sprightly
Prosecco to lift both the palate
and the spirits. Reds need to be
quite light, not too heavily fruity
but fairly dry, with lightish tannins.
A fresh slightly chilled Beaujolais
would do the trick handsomely,
or maybe a Barbera d’Asti?
Anyway back to Fujiyama: I tried
a selection of sushi and was well
pleased - the balance between sticky
rice and a decent amount of fish
was just right. Yakitori chicken
skewers had been marinated then
chargrilled to perfection -- very
tasty indeed, and the teriyaki
fillet steak was seriously good,
both tender and offering flavours
of both spice and meat in near
perfect balance.
I saw some young people on a neighbouring
table tucking into huge bowls of
soup. Not surprising when you can
get a Fuji Ramen (assorted seafood
soup, topped with prawns, squid,
mussels, half boiled egg, tofu,
bamboo shoots, and black seaweed
fishcake, sliced chicken breast,
baby spinach and spring onions – all
for £6.50!)
In spite of the bench seating
and our very early arrival, we
didn't leave until nearly 10 o'clock,
having had a most enjoyable and
sociable evening. The waiting staff
are most obliging; a few little
language problems here and there
were soon sorted out and the food
came out remarkably quickly. Best
of all, we were not hassled or
made to feel that we should vacate
our table.
The exciting thing that I learned,
is that the same owners are opening
a slightly more upmarket version
only two minutes walk from Clapham
Junction station, and are hoping
to open in March or April.
The cost of your meal - how long
is a piece of string? You could
eat most satisfyingly for £10,
like a prince for £20, and
for £30 plus you could dine
like an emperor!
Clifford Mould, March 2008
