Restaurant Reviews – Dine Online

Wine Maker Mike Brown of Gemtree, Speaks To Helen Forrest

Mike Brown of Gemtree is one of the few winemakers in Australia to employ biodynamic methods in his vineyards. Helen Forrest asked him why.

MB: Well, it may be an unusual method in Australia but it is used a lot in France and is well established. To me it’s the best way of getting a 100% natural product.

What does it involve?

MB: We go by the lunar calendar (Hence ‘Moonstone’ one of Gemtree’s most popular wines) there are certain times when it is better to plant, to harvest, to taste. We work with nature, not against it. It is one step ahead of organic. We use a bacterial culture to increase soil fertility and health. It helps to increase the water holding capacity of the soil so we can recycle water and just use less and this helps us overcome shortages. No chemicals are involved, no pesticides being sprayed so this increases the natural balance of soil. There are over 800 producers in Australia and only a very small number are using this method.

So I am assuming you are against GM usage in winemaking?

MB: That’s right. I’m not into it. We are all about the opposite; going back to basics.

Are there any new wines that you think will be the next big thing?

MB: We are producing more aromatic wines which I think are a type of blend that will be big. We are starting to deal with the drought by recycling water and different varieties of international wines are wells suited to the Australian climate so I can see those coming through more.

How about new areas in Australia for wine to be produced in?

MB: I would say Tasmania is one to watch. It has a cool climate which produces more elegant wines. We are often criticized [in Australia] for wines that are too big, too powerful. A cooler climate produces a different kind of wine and people are starting to be very adventurous in that way with traditional beer regions now having grapes planted in them.

You mentioned new kinds of wine, and your White Lees is an example of this, (Gemtree’s unusual wine that uses the dead yeast cells and matter usually left at the bottom of the barrel, for their extraordinarily good flavour – they also work as a natural preservative) what do you think about the new blends that are being produced? Some say that a lot are not natural or balanced.

MB: I really think that winemakers need to put more thought processes into what they do. There doesn’t always seem to be enough thinking gone into it. With certain wine styles I can’t see why they are going with it, what their goal is. If the wine is not balanced you have got to ask yourself what you are producing…

How about Rose? It has become very popular over here in the last few years.

MB: It is also quite popular in Australia now. I think it was always be around but it is not the style of wine that I like to produce, I think it lacks definition.

Mike Brown is Winemaker at Gemtree, who are based in McLaren Vale in South Australia – www.gemtreevineyards.com.au