Wild Honey, St.Georges Square, Mayfair, London – Reviewed By Ben John Edwards

Ben was not very impressed:

I would be lying if I were to say that it was a total disaster. The
food was well cooked and thought out. However, nothing on the plates put
in front of me had anything nearing the Wow Factor you would expect from a
Michelin Star.

Well I’ll start by saying a very big ‘Sorry’ to Jim. It was my
friends birthday celebration, and I talked him out of going to Langans
(which has less than favourable reviews and is a glorified ‘old boys
club’) to go to much talked about Wild Honey, in London’s Mayfair.

It had, incidentally, just won a Michelin star and I was very anxious to try it
out. Unfortunately, the only thing it had in common with Michelin is that
it left me ‘tyred’.

Upon arrival, 10 minutes early, we were asked, neigh, TOLD to come back in
ten minutes when our table was ready. Before I could object, we were told
we could stay (oh thanks…) if we squeezed into the gap beside the
window. Half our party were then offered drinks, still in our coats,
whilst the other half stood perplexed by the bar. We were then left to
stand at the bar perusing menus.

Thankfully, a far more charming waiter picked up on our immediate
dissatisfaction, and our table was quickly prepared. However, they had
decided that the best place to put six diners celebrating a birthday was
in a dingy booth beside the stairs to the toilets. Even then I had to ask
for our coats to be taken.

It was NOT going well – they certainly didn’t win any stars for the
service. Our party were asked several times in a patronising tone whether
we needed any ‘help’ with the menu (If I was unfamiliar with any of the
terms or ingredients, I’ll ask, thankyou), and were generally treated as
accidental walk-ins rather than serious diners.

At one point, an incredibly rude waiter asked one of our party, quite forcefully whilst
delivering his main course, ‘do you want this or not?’. I am quite glad he
hadn’t addressed me in that manner, because he would have received a
graphic and detailed answer of what he could have done with it.

Still, onto the food. I started with gurnard, in a ceviche style, on a
tomato and blood orange salsa, in reflection of the skin of the fish, a
nice touch. This was fine, delicate and sweet. However, the salsa was
reminiscent of the tomato sauce on a cheap frozen pizza, and I found this
to be offputting. Haunch of venison with sweet potato and kale was
perfectly cooked, but very delicate in flavour – I had expected a certain
‘highness’ which was entirely absent and far too safe for Michelin
standard.

I then chose from an uninspiring but tasty cheese selection,
with an Epoisse-style cheese coming out the winner, and a signature ‘Wild
Honey’ ice cream with honeycomb, which was admittedly very good, only to
be superceded by a Sainsburys Taste the Difference offering a day later.
Saving grace? Very good wine list; it would have been hard to pick a duff
drop – the Sauvignon blanc and Viognier I had were fantastic.

So, I would be lying if I were to say that it was a total disaster. The
food was well cooked and thought out. However, nothing on the plates put
in front of me had anything nearing the Wow Factor you would expect from a
Michelin Star. My beloved Bildeston Crown, Suffolk, is a far better
restaurant food wise, and knocks Wild Honey into a cocked hat. But what
really marred the evening was the condescending, dismissive, indifferent
and downright rude service we were subjected to, aside from one waiter. We
did not leave a tip, as they did not deserve it. The only thing about that
restaurant that was wild was me on my exit.