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Deep, The Boulevard, Imperial Wharf SW6

Louise Elgin goes upstream

If you like eating out somewhere a bit different that has a relaxed vibe with a modern interior Deep might just be your thing. Situated right on the edge of the Thames in a sleek new development that’s just a stones throw away from Chelsea Harbour, Deep offers a spacious and relaxed dining experience - with glass floor to ceiling windows, chilled music, and an attractive mostly white interior. Predominately a fish restaurant with a Scandinavian twist - the Chef Proprietor Christian Sandefeldt being Swedish, This together with his wife is their first solo venture, having worked more recently at The Phene Arms gastro pub in Chelsea and before that running The Aquarium seafood restaurant in St. Katherine’s Dock.

The menu is mainly fish based, with an emphasis placed on freshness. To begin there is either a comprehensive selection of seafood at market price, including Devon crab, Irish rock oysters and a seafood platter for two, and several other starters, mostly, but not all seafood based. After a light and flavoursome amuse bouche sized lobster bisque with a cognac chantilly I began with a carpaccio of salmon with crispy Parma ham, artic caviar and an roast chilli and garlic dressing. This was beautifully presented on an attractive rectangular plate, the delicacy of the salmon a good contrast to the other stronger flavours. My guest ordered a selection of herrings served with crisp bread, mature cheddar and new potatoes which was a picture in its presentation. With this he tried a glass of Aquavit - a vodka and herb based Scandinavian rocket fuel which is served chilled - has a powerful kick - and complemented the strong flavours of the herrings perfectly.

The main courses are mainly fish based but if some of your party are not big fish eaters there are other options although I think a vegetarian might struggle here. I had the steamed halibut with eggs, prawns, horseradish and parsley potatoes. This is served with an excellent butter sauce and was really enjoyable in its simplicity and freshness of flavours. A delicious white wine I would suggest you try is the French Sauvignon Blanc “petit bourgeois” 2004 - a perfect wine to complement fish being crisp and fresh on the palate. However, with such a choice of Aquavit on offer (19 to be precise), it seems almost immoral not to indulge in one or two. My guest ordered the ‘deep’ steak and ale pie, accompanying it with a glass of claret. The pie was served in an open round pastry flan and was very well presented, although he commented he prefers to have his potatoes separate to the pie rather than as a base inside the flan.

To finish, there were four puddings - all sounding tempting and including Neal’s Yard cheeses and a crème caramel - I settled on a thin brittle slab of chocolate brownie with a good peanut flavour and an accompanying really refreshing to die for mandarin sorbet. My guest had the café Latte pannacotta served with a ball of chocolate ice cream. He said the coffee flavour was strong, just the way he likes it and the pannacotta was light and all very enjoyable.

Deep is a restaurant not yet fully discovered and I would recommend a visit for the herrings and the aquavit alone. It is set in a wonderful position and there is also a large bar with views over the river and a terrace which would be perfect to sit out on during the warmer months. Either grab a taxi or walk the 15 minutes from Fulham Broadway tube to work up a good appetite.

Louise Elgin. December 2006

Deep, The Boulevard, Imperial Wharf, London SW6 2UB 
Tel: 020 7736 3337

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