The Brunello Restaurant is somewhere not just to eat, but also to experience, due to the sheer opulence of its interior.

Dining here is a bit like being on a stage set of a very exotic theatre production.

The very large open plan room is spacious and welcoming with an atmosphere of indulgence. The dining tables are large with deep comfy armchairs to settle into, the room is predominately black and gold with stunning black Murano glass chandeliers throughout. Jazz is played at a very low volume and overall a sense of occasion and formality have been installed. Other interesting design features include a wall of tumbling water and a beautiful large screen filled with retro style black and white photographs. But would it all be a triumph of style over substance?

Champagne seemed to fit the occasion so we began with a glass of Moet & Chandon Brut Imperial non vintage - delicately crafted with very fine bubbles - the sign of a good quality champagne, our appetites nicely whetted for a spot of lunch and a perfect way to spend a rainy May afternoon in London.

The food is Italian and in the kitchen is Head Chef Stafano Stecca, who has worked in some of Italy’s finest restaurants, and of late has crafted his techniques in some of London’s best dining rooms including Al Duca, Rosmarino and Zafferano. There are two menus - a la carte and a set menu. The set menu being particularly good value at £20.00 for two courses or £24.00 for three courses including a glass of wine - perfect for the ‘ladies who lunch’ who were predominately the other diners in the room. We decided on the a la carte menu and I began with Linguini with prawns and courgette flowers, which was fresh tasting, buttery with a good flavour. My guest chose the cream of pea soup with dried bacon and fresh goat’s cheese, saying it was rich and velvety and pleasing.

To follow I chose the mixed fish and shellfish tempura (fritto misto) with tartare sauce and chilli honey, it had a fragrance as if it had come straight from the sea, attractively served on a rectangular plate with a good squeeze of lemon, it was a plate of delicate flavours nicely offset by the punchy dipping sauce. To drink I had a glass of Italian Chardonnay which was fruity without being too heavily oaked. My guest had a plate of roast fillet of beef with foie gras, celeriac mash and Brunello red wine sauce. He said the meat was beautifully tender, served slightly pink as requested with a slice of delicious foie gras and a very pleasing jus. To drink he tried an eponymous red Brunello which he said was rich and luxurious on the palate - a fine accompaniment to the meat. We finished by sharing a very light strawberry and raspberry mousse with fresh fruit and strawberry coulis.

This is the ultimate romantic lunch or dinner a deux destination, where the substance does match the style! Brunello provides luxurious and calm atmosphere that in a city as busy as London, can sometimes be hard to find.

Louise Elgin. May 2007.

Set lunch from £20.00 per head including a glass of wine.
Dinner from £70 per head including wine and service.

Brunello Restaurant
Baglioni Hotel
60 Hyde Park Gate
London SW7
Tel: 020 7368 5900