Brasserie Roux Restaurant
Review, Sofitel London Heathrow
Brasserie
Roux
Sofitel London Heathrow
Terminal 5
London Heathrow Airport
Tel: 020 8757 5029
Turning up at an airport without
a suitcase is an unusual feeling.
With the weather as bad as its
been recently I couldn’t
help looking at the departures
board and wishing I could head
off somewhere warm and sunny. Terminal
5 is unlike any other terminal
at Heathrow. It is vast and spacious
and has a really pleasurable environment,
with no queues, plenty of shops
and bizarrely, hardly any people.
The Brasserie Roux (situated inside
the 5-Star Sofitel Hotel, just
adjacent to the arrivals area of
the terminal) is somewhere close
by to dine in relaxed and attractive
surroundings. The Roux name has
long been associated with culinary
excellence and Albert Roux is behind
the scenes here, putting his personal
stamp on proceedings. Once inside,
the restaurant is set in a spacious
and airy steel and glass atrium;
the theme is eclectic and contempory,
with neutral colours, subdued drum
style lights and an intimate atmosphere.
At one end there is a water feature
which has a magical effect of completely
insulating the restaurant from
any aeroplane noise that may be
taking place outside.
If time is of the
essence, as it so often is with
travelling,
there is the ROUXPRESS Menu. It
can be, as the name suggests, served
immediately and is also a great
way to eat well inexpensively.
Choices included shepherds pie,
ballotine of fois gras, sea bream
in a red wine sauce and a selection
of cheeses, which priced at £19.50
for three courses seemed a relative
bargain.
Luxurious surroundings call for
indulgent behaviour so we kicked
off proceedings with a perfectly
chilled glass of Laurent-Perrier
Cuvee Rose Brut Champagne. This
made the fact that the only travelling
I was doing later that day was
back home a little easier to swallow.
The menu is substantial and should
please most palates. The ten entrees
included a crab salad with mustard
and jelly cucumber, and a pike
mousse with a puree of mushroom
and lobster sauce. I began with
a classic French onion soup finished
with cream and cider. It was perfect
for the winter’s night outside;
sweet and creamy with a lush thick
interior and satisfying flavour.
Foie gras came served with honey
roasted figs and was rapturously
received by my guest. To accompany
this we tried a very palatable
rich white wine from the Catalan
region of France, La Soula Blanc,
with satisfying and pleasant woody
overtones.
For my main course, I tried one
of the specials of the day, pan-fried
belly of pork, served with wild
mushrooms, creamy mash and a rich
tarragon jus. A satisfying plate
of flavours, the meat being very
tender and proving a wonderful
accompaniment to my glass of rich
and fruity spiced French Pomerol.
My guest’s rack of lamb with
roasted garlic and ratatouille
came very well cooked and was served
with French beans and spinach.
Often I can’t find room
for pudding but I had metamorphosed
into a self-indulgent mood. From
a choice of six, which included
chocolate crème brulee and
rum baba, I chose a perfectly prepared
British classic, apple crumble
served with cream. A glass of Sauterne
with its beautiful honeysuckle
notes blended splendidly.
There are also two private dining
rooms. One is larger than the other
(The Saloon Privee) and would be
suitable for a corporate event,
while the Chef‘s Table seats
ten. Once installed it is possible,
with a crafty flick of a switch,
to have a fascinating voyeuristic
view into the kitchens. The evening
was thoroughly enjoyable and I
would strongly recommend it. Just
a word of warning - it is all too
easy to forget you are at an airport
so be careful not to miss your
flight!
Louise Elgin. November 2008
A meal for two with wine and water
is around £90.00
ROUXPRESS Three course rapid menu £19.50
per person
